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1920s Necklaces

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Period: 1920s
Gemstone: Cultured Pearl
Old gold pendant with pearl and diamonds 0.50 ct, Austria-Hungary, circa 1920.
Located in Chorzów, PL
An old pendant in the form of a carnation with a pearl and nine diamonds in the former brilliant cut, the so-called "old" The pendant is made of yellow and white gold (0.585). Orig...
Category

Austrian Art Nouveau Vintage 1920s Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold

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Mikimoto Kōkichi became fascinated with pearls as a young child in Japan. He would in time invent a process for creating what became the first cultured pearl —a blister pearl— and later seed pearls and half-pearls. In 1920 Mikimoto achieved his ultimate goal when he successfully cultured the first commercially viable round pearls. The necklace featured here is an extraordinarily rare and 100% original strand of early 1920s cultured Akoya pearls created by Mikimoto, the Japanese company founded by Mikimoto Kōkichi. This historically significant necklace pre-dates the 1937 World Exposition in Paris at which Mikimoto displayed a brilliantly innovative and unique jewel featuring his miraculous and perfect cultured pearls together with diamonds, emeralds and calibre cut sapphires: the Yaguruma Sash Clip. It was this piece of jewelry that placed Mikimoto front and center on the world stage. The early 19" Art Deco necklace you see her was created before Mikimoto had established himself as a legend. Composed of 101 luminous round pearls that range in size from 3.33 mm to 7.06 mm. The pearls display excellent luminosity and orient. They are a creamy-white color with gold overtones. These pearls more strongly resemble natural, uncultured pearls because of their thick, high-quality nacre. Nacre (pronounced NAY-ker) is the luminous, magical substance of which natural pearls are composed. Cultured pearls contain a bead of shell or tissue around which nacre forms. Nacre takes time to develop. But the longer a pearl remains in the mollusk, the greater the chances for irregularities and imperfections to occur. So one must balance the time allowed for thick nacre to occur while at the same time achieving a round pearl without blemishes or pitting. Today, it's common for a commercial-quality cultured pearl to spend as few as eight months in the water achieving a bead-round pearl with high luster but at the price of thin nacre which can wear-away in very little time. However, early cultured pearls like these remained in the water for much longer —sometimes years— resulting in a very thick layer of nacre. Which is why these pearls have such extraordinary luster and orient. "Orient" is the play of light —the glow— that seems to come from within the pearl and not all pearls display orient because thick nacre is required for this display to occur. For many years I sought a strand of antique Mikimoto pearls because I have always been especially fascinated by an artist's first work, not necessarily their most famous. Over the years I have encountered many strands of pearl necklaces...
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