Oscar Heyman 1940 Art Deco Cocktail Ring In Platinum With Diamonds & White Pearl

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Oscar Heyman 1940 Art Deco Cocktail Ring In Platinum With Diamonds & White Pearl

About the Item

Art Deco cocktail ring designed by Oscar Heyman Brothers. Beautiful and rare ring, created in New York city by the iconic jewelry designers and maker's Oscar Heyman Brothers, back in the 1940's. This piece has been made with great attention to details in solid bold .900/.999 platinum and .100/.999 iridium. It is mounted in prongs settings, with four round Akoya (Pinctada fucata) white pearls of 8 mm and 9 mm respectively. Accented by 6 calibrated bezels that are holding round brilliant cut diamonds, 0.30 carats and at the sides in a channel-setting, with a pair of straight baguettes, 0.20 carats. All diamonds have a combined weight of 0.50 carats, are E color and VS-1 clarity. The diamonds settings are finished with millegrain patterns. Has a total weight of 14.9 Grams and the actual size is 6.25, sizeable. The top view measurements are 24.5 mm by 19 mm. Stamped, with the maker's mark, the serial number associated to Oscar Heyman Brothers, the assay hallmark for the platinum and signed, "10% IRID-PLAT 52950 HB". Oscar Heyman & Bros is an American jewelry firm and manufacturer that first gained attention in the 1920’s. In 1906, Oscar and Nathan Heyman immigrated to the united states from Latvia. Thanks to an apprenticeship at their great-uncle’s Faberge workshop, they arrived with a skill that made them instantly employable: They could work with platinum, a metal relatively new at the time. Oscar was hired to work in Cartier’s first New York workshop at 712 Fifth Avenue, he was the first non-French bench jeweler hired by the firm. When the whole family moved to New York in 1912, Oscar, Nathan, and Harry Heyman founded the company in the same year. They were later joined by their three younger brothers, George, William, and Louis, along with two sisters, Frances and Lena. In 1970, Oscar Heyman died, and his youngest brother, George, took over the business. The company continued to expand globally during the 1970s while still making products for other high-end jewelry businesses and selling directly to department stores such as Neiman Marcus. Other Heyman family members have continued to run the company over time, with the current president being George's son Adam Heyman. The company's jewelry is still highly regarded and frequently worn by celebrities on the red carpet. Note: Millegrain is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry. Note: The original Japanese cultured pearls, known as akoya pearls, are produced by a species of small pearl oyster, Pinctada fucata, which is no bigger than 6 to 8 cm in size, hence akoya pearls larger than 10 mm in diameter are extremely rare and highly priced. Today, a hybrid mollusk is used in both Japan and China in the production of akoya pearls. Furthermore, other Pinctada and Pteria species are also used for producing cultured pearls today Note: The four pearls displayed in this ring, exhibit a clean surface with great color, a beautiful luster, with great nacre and the presence of a perfect orient. Note: Iridium is a chemical element with the symbol Ir and atomic number 77. A very hard, brittle, silvery-white transition metal of the platinum group. This white noble metal was discovered in 1803 and from the mid-19th century to 1960 it was used in jewelry to give platinum its hardness, in a ratio of 1 to 9. It is in excellent condition. INVENTORY REF: R0000AENM/.4298

Creator:
Oscar Heyman
Ring Size:
6.25 US, Resizable
Metal:
Platinum
Stone:
Diamond,Pearl
Stone Cut:
Brilliant Cut
Style:
Art Deco
Place of Origin:
United States
Period:
Mid-20th Century
Date of Manufacture:
1940
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Miami, FL
Reference Number:
Seller: R0000AENM/.42981stDibs: LU2690215391022

Shop All Oscar Heyman

Oscar Heyman

Known as “the jewelers’ jeweler,” Oscar Heyman (1888–1970) designed pieces for Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston and Black, Starr & Frost. The family-run Oscar Heyman & Brothers jewelry company was founded by Heyman with his brothers Nathan and Harry in 1912. Jewelers from Latvia, they had trained at their great-uncle’s workshop, which had clients including Russian imperial jeweler Fabergé, before immigrating to the United States in the early 1900s.

After arriving in New York, Oscar worked with Pierre Cartier and Nathan was a tool maker at Western Electric before they came together to open their jewelry business. Highly skilled craftsmen, the Heyman brothers quickly developed a roster of high-profile clients — primarily big-name jewelers — drawn to their work with dazzling stones and meticulous design. In 1917, Black, Starr & Frost commissioned the brothers to design an American flag brooch, which would become a recurring motif in the Oscar Heyman & Brothers portfolio. They also designed the Pansy brooch in the 1930s, another long-popular accessory that was produced exclusively for Tiffany & Co. toward the end of the 20th century. After Heyman designed for four of the five jewelers on view at the 1939 World’s Fair House of Jewels (Cartier, Udall & Ballou, Marcus & Co. and Black, Starr & Frost), the company was given the moniker “the jewelers’ jeweler.”

Heyman & Brothers later designed gem-encrusted medallions that traveled to the moon on Apollo 16, the necklace setting for the 69-carat diamond Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor in 1969 and even a pair of ruby-encrusted Stuart Weitzman stilettos in 2003. Over the years, the company has entranced such clients as Evelyn Lauder, Marjorie Merriweather Post, Billy Porter and Tina Fey with its pieces.

In 2012, the century-old jeweler underwent a rebranding to simplify its name to Oscar Heyman and today is still run by the Heyman family, which manages the whole process from alloying their own metal to cutting and polishing their gemstones to assembling the final product in-house. In 2017, the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston published a monograph authored by Yvonne J. Markowitz and Elizabeth Hamilton that details for a broader audience the history of Oscar Heyman, an unsung company that’s long been behind some of the biggest names in jewelry.

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