Modern Jewelry
Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.
Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”
A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.
Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.
Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Early 1900s North American Antique Modern Jewelry
Early 1900s American Antique Modern Jewelry
White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry
Mixed Metal
Early 1900s American Antique Modern Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Italian Antique Modern Jewelry
Early 1900s Unknown Antique Modern Jewelry
Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Russian Antique Modern Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century French Antique Modern Jewelry
Ruby, Rose Gold
20th Century Modern Jewelry
14k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Modern Jewelry
14k Gold
19th Century Danish Antique Modern Jewelry
18k Gold
Early 1900s Unknown Antique Modern Jewelry
Gold-filled
Late 19th Century American Antique Modern Jewelry
2010s Modern Jewelry
Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
20th Century Modern Jewelry
Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century American Modern Jewelry
Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Antique Modern Jewelry
Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Modern Jewelry
Pearl, Gold
1890s American Antique Modern Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Modern Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Gold, Gold, 18k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Modern Jewelry
Hematite, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry
Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, White Gold, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Swazi Antique Modern Jewelry
Onyx
Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry
Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry
Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Modern Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Modern Jewelry
Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry
Diamond, Opal
Early 1900s Unknown Antique Modern Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold