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Modern Jewelry

MODERN STYLE

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

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Period: Early 1900s
Style: Modern
Elgin 52mm 1906 Pocket Watch, 17 Jewel Serviced 90-Day Warranty, Serial 12195791
Located in Rancho Santa Fe, CA
This 1906 53mm Elgin pocket watch with a white face is a stunning timepiece crafted with precision and elegance. Weighing 95.9 grams, this silver-colored watch is not only visually appealing but also made to stand the test of time. With a diameter of 52mm and a thickness of 14mm, this pocket watch is the perfect size. The plexiglass crystal is very clean. Rest assured, this watch has been fully serviced, including a complete clean and overhaul, ensuring it is in optimal working condition. It even comes with a 90-day warranty for added peace of mind. Although it is a vintage watch, it is important to note that it may not keep time to the exact second like a brand-new watch, but it is consistently accurate. The watch features a 17-jewel movement and bears the name of the esteemed Elgin National Watch Company. Its serial number, 12195791, guarantees its authenticity and adds to its collectibility. While there is a tiny hairline near the 7 on the face, it does not detract from the overall beauty of this timepiece. For any watch collector, this Elgin pocket watch is a must-have. Its classic style and impeccable craftsmanship make it a true gem in any collection. Please let us know if you have any questions. Pocket watch database information about the watch based on the serial number: Manufacturer: Elgin Manufacturer Location: Elgin, Illinois Movement Serial Number: 12195791 Grade: 339 Model: 6 Class: 107 Estimated Production Year: 1906 Run Quantity: 3,000 Grade/Model Run: 7 of 38 Grade/Model Total Production: 50,500 Variant Est. Production: 49,500 (16S-M6-17J-HNP) Size: 16s Jewels: 17j Jewel Setting: Screw-Set Movement Configuration: Hunting Movement Finish: Nickel Movement Setting: Pendant Plate: Bridge Plate Barrel: Going Balance Type: Expansion Train: Quick Regulator: Moseley Hairspring: Breguet Standard Dial Type: Single-Sunk Adjusted: No Railroad Grade: No Rock N Gold Creations is a reputable and long-standing jewelry...
Category

Early 1900s North American Antique Modern Jewelry

Oscar Heyman Modernist Diamond Ruby Garnet Gold Hummingbird Brooch
Located in Greenwich, CT
Birds of a feather flock together. Find the perfect match with this Oscar Heyman modernist yellow and white diamond, tsavorite garnet, ruby, 18 karat yellow gold hummingbird brooch....
Category

Early 1900s American Antique Modern Jewelry

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold

Vintage Hammered Gold Tone Round Link Choker with Victorian Fob Circa 1900s
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Hammered Gold Tone Round Link Choker with Victorian Fob. The Fob has a Crystal at the bottom. 14" L x .25" W. The fob is 1.5" L x .75" W. I am s...
Category

Early 1900s British Antique Modern Jewelry

Materials

Mixed Metal

Antique Elgin 18k Yellow Gold Mini Hunter Pocket Watch, Size 0S
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
Beautiful Antique Elgin Pocket Watch w/ White Dial Including Gold Color Hands & Dedicated Second Dial 18K Yellow Gold Case w/ Intricate enamel design in center of dial Black Roman Nu...
Category

Early 1900s American Antique Modern Jewelry

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Venetian Wedding Cake Beaded Necklace
Located in McKinney, TX
- Antique item - Collectible costume jewelry piece from the early 20th century - 25" length - Sky blue elongated lamp work Venetian Fiorato beads - ...
Category

Early 1900s Italian Antique Modern Jewelry

Rare Set of 9 Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Vine Pattern Butter Pats
Located in Philadelphia, PA
An extremely rare set of sterling silver butter pats. In the Vine pattern decorated with raised poppies and other flowers around the rim's edge. By Tiffany & Co. Monogrammed to t...
Category

Early 1900s Unknown Antique Modern Jewelry

Materials

Sterling Silver

14 Karat Yellow Gold Russia Modern Style Brooch
Located in Orimattila, FI
14 Karat Yellow Gold Russia Modern Style Brooch Width 5.2cm 56 Gold Stamp. Maker mark does not get clear. Probably from St. Petersburg.
Category

Early 1900s Russian Antique Modern Jewelry

Materials

14k Gold, Yellow Gold

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Hamilton Gold Filled Pocket Watch, 21 jewels, Size 16
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Set of 4 Tiffany & Co Sterling Silver Shot/Cordial Cups w/Pouches and Box #15341
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Set of 4 Tiffany & Co Makers sterling silver shot/cordial cups with pouches and box. No monogram or engraving. Round design with a smooth polished finish and a gold wash interior. Includes 4 vintage pouches and red Tiffany & Co vintage cardboard box...
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Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Coquille Dishes
Located in Coeur d Alene, ID
Very nice set of five Tiffany & Co. small sterling silver coquille dishes made the first half 20th Century. Each piece stamped "Tiffany & Co Makers Sterling 22479." PERIOD: First ha...
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Late Victorian 9k Yellow Gold Fob Chain Circa 1900
Located in ADELAIDE, SA
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Marina B Pearl Blue Russian Quartz Onyx Bead Gold Necklace Cardan Long Necklace
Located in Milano, IT
Vintage Long 18k gold necklace by Marina B, with 10.5 mm Blue Beads, 7mm onyx and 8mm pearls. Necklace is 84 cm long. Marked: Marina B, MB, Italy, 750. Weight - 131,5 grams. Please n...
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Angela Cummings 1991 New York Studios Dangling Earrings 18Kt Gold and Hematite
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Gilded Brutalist Brooch with Amethyst Crystal by Panetta, Signed, circa 1960
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