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Boucheron Ruby and Diamond Platinum Ring
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
A vibrant and stylish Boucheron ruby and diamond set platinum ring comprising of a four claw set
Category

1990s Unknown Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby, Platinum

Boucheron Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring, French, circa 1970
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
Boucheron ruby and diamond cluster ring. Set centrally with seven round old cut natural unenhanced
Category

Late 20th Century French Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Ruby and Diamond Cocktail Ring, French, circa 1940
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
Boucheron ruby and diamond cocktail ring. Centrally set with two rows of square step cut natural
Category

Vintage 1940s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Boucheron Ruby and Diamond Earrings
By Boucheron
Located in New York, NY
A pair of platinum- and gold-set diamond and ruby earrings by Boucheron. The earrings, housed in
Category

Vintage 1960s Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Boucheron Ruby And Diamond Earrings Day & Night Vintage Jewelry
By Boucheron
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A spectacular pair of Boucheron ruby and diamond earrings, featuring a convertible “day to night
Category

Vintage 1980s French Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Square Bar Cufflinks
By Boucheron
Located in Simpsonville, SC
A striking embodiment of elegance, these cufflinks by Boucheron showcase the brand's dedication to
Category

Late 20th Century Cufflinks

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Burma Ruby Ring by Boucheron
By Boucheron
Located in New Orleans, LA
This remarkable Burma ruby ring by Boucheron is a beautiful jeweled creation by one of the most
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Natural Burma Ruby Diamond Ring
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
Boucheron Burmese ruby and diamond ring. Set to centre with a cushion shape old cut natural
Category

Vintage 1930s French Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Boucheron Paris 1960s Ruby Sapphire Emerald Diamond Necklace
By Boucheron
Located in Palm Beach, FL
natural rubies totaling approximately 3.30 carats. Signed "Boucheron Paris" with French assay and maker's
Category

Vintage 1960s French Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Paris 1960s Ruby Sapphire Emerald Diamond Bracelet
By Boucheron
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Vintage Boucheron Paris bracelet of an openwork 18k yellow gold braided design, the front accented
Category

Vintage 1960s French Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Burma No-Heat Ruby and Diamond Earrings
By Boucheron
Located in New York, NY
A magnificent and rare pair of four pigeon blood red natural burmese no heat cushion shaped rubies
Category

20th Century French Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18kt Yellow Gold And Ruby Feather Brooch By Boucheron
By Boucheron
Located in Firenze, IT
of sixteen rubies. The work is signed by Boucheron, a jewelry brand founded by Frédéric Boucheron in
Category

Vintage 1970s French Retro Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Deco Boucheron Silver, 18ct Gold & Rubies Minauidere Box/Compact
By Boucheron
Located in Portland, England
The exquisite Art Deco 18ct rose gold, silver and ruby Boucheron compact is designed with a gold
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Deco Vanity Items

Materials

Ruby, Gold, Silver

Boucheron 1940s Lady's Ruby and Sapphire vanity case "Minaudiêre Bag"
By Boucheron
Located in OVIEDO, AS
Boucheron 1940s Lady's Ruby and Sapphire vanity case "Minaudiêre Bag" The rectangular case
Category

Vintage 1930s French Aesthetic Movement Vanity Items

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Silver, 18k Gold

Boucheron Paris 18kt Gold Bird Brooch with Ruby Eye, Circa 1920s
By Boucheron
Located in Braintree, GB
) • Gemstone: Ruby, approx. 0.04 ct • Serial Number: 11022 (partial) • Marks: Eagle head, Boucheron Paris
Category

Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Paris 1940s Art Deco Sterling Gold Ruby Necklace Compact
By Boucheron
Located in University City, MO
Boucheron Paris 1940s Art Deco sterling, gold & ruby jeweled compact - necklace The exquisite
Category

Vintage 1940s French Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, Sterling Silver

Boucheron Paris 1940s Art Deco Sterling Gold Ruby Necklace Compact
Boucheron Paris 1940s Art Deco Sterling Gold Ruby Necklace Compact
$12,000 Sale Price
20% Off
H 3 in W 2.25 in D 0.5 in
Boucheron Art Deco Invisibly-Set Ruby Diamond Suite, circa 1930
By Boucheron
Located in New York, NY
Boucheron box. The bangle bracelet features 65 calibré rubies and 42 round/single-cut diamonds. The twin
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Deco Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Boucheron 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Ruby Bird Brooch Pin, 1960s
By Boucheron
Located in Zurich, CH
Adorable 18 karat yellow gold and ruby bird brooch pin by renowned French jewelry house Boucheron
Category

Vintage 1960s French Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

9k Yellow Gold and Ruby Compact by Boucheron (1964)
By Boucheron
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive vintage 9 karat yellow gold and 0.86 carat ruby compact made by
Category

Vintage 1960s British Decorative Boxes

Materials

Gold

Natural Burmese Ruby and Diamond Cocktail Ring by Boucheron, circa 1945
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
Boucheron Burmese ruby and diamond cocktail ring. Set to the centre with six round old cut natural
Category

Vintage 1940s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Powder box "Boucheron"
By Boucheron
Located in Bologna, IT
Scatola portacipria in Argento 925/1000 ed in oro rosa 14k (585/1000), marcato " Boucheron- Paris
Category

Vintage 1960s French Art Deco Boxes and Cases

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

Powder box  "Boucheron"
Powder box  "Boucheron"
$4,108
H 0.56 in W 2.17 in L 2.96 in
BOUCHERON, 1940s-1950s Beauty Kit Gold Silver Rubies with Bag and Box
By Boucheron
Located in Paris, FR
BOUCHERON, 1940s-1950s Rectangular beauty kit in 800 thousandths grooved silver, the lid decorated
Category

Vintage 1940s French Art Deco Vanity Items

Materials

Ruby, Gold, Silver

Boucheron Enameled Terrapin Brooch
By Boucheron
Located in Litchfield, CT
Circa 1960s, 18k, by Boucheron, Paris, France. This whimsical turtle brooch is a chic reminder that
Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Enamel

Boucheron Enameled Terrapin Brooch
By Boucheron
Located in Litchfield, CT
Circa 1960s, 18k, by Boucheron, Paris, France. This whimsical turtle brooch is a chic reminder that
Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Semi-Rigid Bracelet pearls in Yellow Gold 18 Carat Sapphires Rubies
By Boucheron
Located in Paris, FR
Boucheron Bracelet semi-rigid open 8 rows of pearls in yellow Gold 18 carats Sapphires and Rubies
Category

Vintage 1960s French Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Modern Vintage Boucheron Paris Clip On Diamond Ruby 18 Karat Gold Feathers
By Boucheron
Located in Munich, Bavaria
feathers. The earclips are made out of 18 karat gold and set with diamonds and natural rubies. Timeless
Category

Vintage 1940s French Retro Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Boucheron Paris Open Wings Bird Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Brooch French Vintage 1960s
By Boucheron
Located in Lisbon, PT
Boucheron Paris Ruby-Eyed Open-Wings Bird Brooch in 18kt Yellow Gold, France, 1960s. A rare and
Category

Vintage 1960s French Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

BOUCHERON Paris 1970 Deco Ring 18Kt White Gold With 1.75 Ctw Diamonds & Rubies
By Boucheron
Located in Miami, FL
Modernist ring designed by Boucheron. This is a gorgeous colorful piece created in France by the
Category

Vintage 1970s French Modernist Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold

Boucheron Vintage Compact Art Deco Paris 5P Ruby 18K / 14K Pink Gold Silver
By Boucheron
Located in Tokyo, JP
Item No.21901101 Brand:BOUCHERON Name:Compact Material:5P Ruby, 750 K18 / 580 K14 Pink Gold, 925 SV
Category

Mid-20th Century French More Jewelry

Materials

Ruby, Silver, Rose Gold, 18k Gold, 14k Gold, Gold

Boucheron 1937 Paris Art Deco Bracelet 18Kt Gold and 5.44 Ctw Diamonds & Rubies
By Boucheron
Located in Miami, FL
A bracelet designed by Boucheron. Extremely rare and beautiful bracelet, created during the art
Category

Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Boucheron Turtle Brooch, c.1960s
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
From the illustrious Jewellery designer Boucheron, comes this whimsical turtle brooch. Crafted in
Category

Vintage 1960s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

BOUCHERON Paris Modernist Ring In 18Kt Gold With 1.94 Ctw In Diamonds & Rubies
By Boucheron
Located in Miami, FL
Modernist cocktail ring designed by Boucheron. Beautiful colorful piece created in France by the
Category

Vintage 1970s French Modernist Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

A Boucheron Paris 18k Gold Silver & Ruby Vermeil Minaudiere Circa 1940
By Boucheron
Located in Tarzana, CA
A Boucheron Paris 18k Gold, Silver & Ruby Vermeil Minaudiere Circa 1940, of rectangular form with
Category

Mid-20th Century French Aesthetic Movement Jewelry Boxes

Materials

Gold, Silver

A Boucheron Paris 18k Gold  Silver & Ruby Vermeil Minaudiere Circa 1940
A Boucheron Paris 18k Gold  Silver & Ruby Vermeil Minaudiere Circa 1940
$6,675 Sale Price
25% Off
H 3.63 in W 5 in D 1.25 in
Boucheron Multigem and Diamond Braided Gold Bracelet
By Boucheron
Located in New York, NY
, Emeralds & Rubies Measurement: Fits A size 6-6.50" Wrist Signature: Stamped "Boucheron"
Category

20th Century Unknown Retro Bangles

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18...

Boucheron Gemset Duck Brooch, France, ca. 1960s
By Boucheron
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A ruby, diamond and turquoise gold duck brooch, ca. 1960s, Boucheron, France. The whimsical duck
Category

Mid-20th Century French Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Oversized Vintage French Silver Compact Case by Boucheron
By Boucheron
Located in Atlanta, GA
A large silver compact case with gilt surface and inset rubies by Boucheron Paris circa 1930s-1940s
Category

Mid-20th Century French Art Deco Jewelry Boxes

Materials

Multi-gemstone, Silver

BOUCHERON - Reflet Solis 1990 Watch Set in Gold and Leather with 5 Straps
By Boucheron
Located in PARIS, FR
BOUCHERON Pre-Owned Watch Set - In Stock - Exceptional watch set from Boucheron, Reflet Solis
Category

1990s European Wrist Watches

Materials

Ruby, Gold

Boucheron Silver 18 Karat Gold Jeweled Mid Century Cosmetic Case w Original Box
By Boucheron
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
Vanity Cosmetic Case by Boucheron, Paris. Always with a keen sense of style, the well respected Maison
Category

Mid-20th Century French Vanity Items

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

Magnificent Large Signed Boucheron Minauidere French Silver, 18k Gold & Rubies
By BUCHERON
Located in Perry, FL
Magnificent Large Sized Signed Boucheron French Silver, 18k Gold & Rubies. Engraved “ Boucheron
Category

Early 20th Century Vanity Items

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Boucheron 1950s Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning vintage French 0.16 carat emerald, 0.25 carat ruby, 0.15 carat sapphire, 0.18 carat
Category

Vintage 1950s French Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Boucheron “Masy the Chameleon” Tsavorite Sapphire Ruby Gold Animal Ring, French
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
sapphire, pink sapphire, and ruby. Masy’s body is completely studded head to tail which is long and wraps
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Tsavorite, Gold, 18k Gold

Boucheron Carriage Brooch Clock
By BUCHERON
Located in New York, NY
Boucheron Vintage Carriage Brooch with Concealed Watch Description: A magnificent vintage brooch
Category

20th Century Italian Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Andre Schwob, Retro Gilded Metal and Sapphires Minaudiere, Boucheron Model, 1935
Located in Paris, FR
, Circa 1935. The Model was created by Schwob for Boucheron. A similar exemplar with rubies is part of the
Category

Vintage 1930s French Retro Vanity Items

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Gilt Metal

BOUCHERON Ruby and Diamond Feather Brooch
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
A classic Boucheron feather brooch with scattered rubies and diamonds set in 18ct rose gold
Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold

BOUCHERON Paris Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
By Boucheron
Located in New York, NY
Set on top with cabochon rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds on a flexible square chain double
Category

Vintage 1940s French Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

BOUCHERON Blackened Gold and Ruby Secret Ring
By Boucheron
Located in Southampton, NY
Made of blackened 18K gold and densely set with vivid red rubies, this Boucheron “poison” ring has
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Contemporary More Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

BOUCHERON Fabulous Diamond Ruby Sapphire Chandelier Earrings
By Boucheron
Located in Southampton, NY
These stunning and dramatic contemporary Boucheron chandelier earrings are composed of three
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Contemporary Chandelier Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold

Boucheron Turquoise Ruby Diamond Gold Bird Brooch
By Boucheron
Located in Kerkrade, NL
gold. The brooch is also signed with Boucheron and the number 14071. The brooch is decorated with
Category

Vintage 1950s French Brooches

Materials

Turquoise, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold

Boucheron White Gold Tentation Macaron Sapphire Ruby Ring
By Boucheron
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
NEW!! NEW Boucheron White Gold Tentation Macaron Sapphire Ruby Ring MSRP $11650 Brand
Category

2010s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, White Gold

Boucheron Vintage Ruby and Yellow Gold Bird Brooch
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
An adorable and whimsy vintage bird brooch by renowned French jewellery house Boucheron. Their
Category

Vintage 1960s French Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold

Boucheron Vintage Ruby and Yellow Gold Bird Brooch
Boucheron Vintage Ruby and Yellow Gold Bird Brooch
$8,580
W 1.13 in D 0.45 in L 1.12 in
Boucheron 18 Karat Gold Eiffel Tower Ruby Diamond Brooch
By Boucheron
Located in Fort Lauderdale, FL
Paris Eiffel Tower brooch by Boucheron crafted in 18-karat yellow gold with rubies and diamonds
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Boucheron 18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Necklace
By Boucheron
Located in New York, NY
contemporary. Diamond and Ruby Necklace, signed Boucheron, Paris no. 58466 Diamonds weigh a total of
Category

Vintage 1960s French Retro Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1970s Boucheron Oval Pink Coral Emerald Ruby Gold Cocktail Ring
By Boucheron
Located in Paris, FR
Boucheron engraved yellow gold ring with one oval pink coral peau d'ange, 3 cabochon emerald drops
Category

Vintage 1970s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Boucheron 18 Karat White Gold Macaron Ruby Tsavorite Amethysts Necklace
By Boucheron
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
New! Boucheron Macaron 18K White Gold Multi Gemstones Diamond Necklace Brand New. Whimsical multi
Category

2010s Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Ruby, Tsavorite, White Gold

Boucheron Quartz Ruby Emerald Sapphire Diamond Necklace and Earring Set
By Boucheron
Located in Sunny Isles Beach, FL
Boucheron Diamond, Ruby, Emerald, Saphire, and Quartz Necklace and Earring Set in 18K Yellow Gold
Category

Late 20th Century More Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Quartz, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Boucheron Serpent Bohème 18k White Gold Black Rhodium Ruby Ring 8.3g
By Boucheron
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Boucheron Serpent Bohème 18K White Gold Black Rhodium Ruby Ring 8.3g Size 5.25 Beautiful ruby
Category

Early 2000s More Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Rhodium

Boucheron Art Deco Ruby Cufflink and Collar Pin Set, circa 1930
By Boucheron
Located in Newport Beach, CA
Beautiful Boucheron of Paris Platinum Ruby Cufflink and Collar Pin Set. Circa 1930. Pure Art Deco
Category

Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Cufflinks

Materials

Ruby, Platinum

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Boucheron Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate boucheron ruby for your needs in our varied inventory. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. Our collection of these items for sale includes 115 vintage editions and 31 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect boucheron ruby may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 18th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. Creating a boucheron ruby has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by Boucheron and BUCHERON are consistently popular. See these pages for a round cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also cabochon cut and french cut cut versions available here, too. There aren’t many items for men if you’re seeking a boucheron ruby, as most of the options available are for women and unisex.

How Much is a Boucheron Ruby?

The price for a boucheron ruby starts at $715 and tops out at $185,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $8,351.

Boucheron for sale on 1stDibs

As the oldest high-end jewelry boutique on the legendary Place Vendôme in Paris, dating to 1893, Boucheron stands for history, sensuality and avant-garde style. The French fine jewelry house has created iconic rings, necklaces and other adornments over its more than 160-year history for royalty like the Russian imperial family, the Maharaja of Patiala and Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. It has also received popular acclaim for its modern designs and playful motifs such as serpents and cats.

Since its founding in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron with a boutique at the Palais Royal arcades, the maison has sought to create unforgettably unique pieces, push the boundaries of innovations in jewelry design and celebrate the opulence of gold. Many of its pieces are sculpted in gold by expert goldsmiths so that the material becomes a design element in its own right.

At its best, Edwardian jewelry was all about the exquisite diamond, platinum and pearl creations made by such famous names as Cartier and Boucheron. Later, Frédéric’s son Louis became especially interested in the Art Deco style as well as accessories like cigarette holders, bags and belts.

Boucheron is most famously known for its sources of inspiration: nature, animals and the earth. Its iconic Serpent Bohème collection, introduced in 1968, references the curves and scales of the animal with pear-shaped motifs and coiled accents adorned with diamonds and other precious stones like turquoiselapis lazuli and malachite. (A 1960s-era Boucheron brooch featuring a lavish mound of artfully assembled round and baguette diamonds set in platinum is a dinner-party conversation starter from any angle.)

Frédéric Boucheron gave a serpent necklace to his wife as a symbol of love and protection. Leopards, hummingbirds, deer and hedgehogs are referenced in the Animaux de Collection, while high-end 3D technology in the Nature Triomphante meticulously re-creates flower petals, ivy branches and other organic forms.

Boucheron also pays homage to Paris, the city where it was founded. The octagonal shape of the Place Vendôme is translated into the geometric Liseré pieces, and the Clou de Paris motif — which is integral to the house's Quatre series — is inspired by the cobblestones on its streets. Since 1859, when Boucheron introduced a collection of pocket watches, the maison has also regularly created timepieces with the same elegance and refinement as its jewelry.

Despite having such a long legacy, Boucheron has always been ahead of its time. Its creative collections and bold jewelry remain coveted and cherished. In 2018, its flagship in the Place Vendôme reopened after a restoration under its current owner Kering.

Find antique and vintage Boucheron jewelry on 1stDibs.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.