Chopard Art Deco

In 1860, a 24-year-old son of a farmer, Louis-Ulysse Chopard (1836–1915), established the L.U.C. company — now known simply as Chopard, rather than by the founder’s initials — in Sonvilier, Switzerland. His initial work evolved from making mechanical movements to building the watches themselves, concentrating on making the pocket watch slimmer to carry for everyday use while also ensuring it was precise and reliable.

Early successes for Chopard included providing watches for the punctuality needs of the Swiss Railway Company. Recognizing the international market for Swiss watchmaking, Chopard traveled across Europe and Russia, with Czar Nicholas II becoming a client in 1912.

Chopard’s son, Paul-Louis, took over after Louis-Ulysse’s death in 1915 and expanded the business to La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1937, the company relocated to the watchmaking center of Geneva, where they could mark their work with the prestigious Geneva Seal. (Paul-Louis’s son, Paul-André, took the reins in 1943.) Business thinned in the postwar years, and Paul-André’s sons declined the opportunity to take over for their father.

In 1963, Chopard was acquired by German goldsmith and watchmaker Karl Scheufele III and his wife, Karin. Under their ownership, Chopard added jewelry to its offerings. The popular Happy Diamonds wristwatch debuted in 1976 — it launched a collection, which now features bracelets, rings and other items. The distinctive watch sees dozens of glittering diamonds, loosed from their settings, moving freely around the dial.

The story goes that the in-house designer Ronald Kurowski was inspired by the kinetic glimmers of sunlight on a waterfall in the Black Forest. He would then develop the innovative system for the Happy Diamonds timepiece that he hoped would essentially mimic his experience in the woods.

A young Caroline Scheufele — Karl and Karin’s daughter, who would later become copresident and artistic director — led the introduction of a Happy Diamonds jewelry line in 1985, with her design for a playful clown pendant with a belly full of jittering precious stones. Subsequent lines and accessories such as the Happy Dreams bracelet, Happy Hearts collection and the Happy Sport watches further enhanced Chopard’s range of dynamic adornment.

The Scheufele family-run company continues to be synonymous with excellence in timepieces, such as its role as the official timekeeper for the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, creating all of its movements in-house. And Chopard is constantly developing its wares, from sunglasses and fragrances to recent introductions of high-end handbags.

Find a wide range of vintage Chopard wristwatches, necklaces, rings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.