Ferre 90s Sweater

Remembered fondly with a nod to his architecture education as the “Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian Fashion” and the “Architect of Fashion,” Milanese designer Gianfranco Ferré spent a lifetime creating handbags, dresses, jackets and other garments and accessories that were defined by meticulous tailoring and crisp geometry. Designing the iconic Lady Dior handbag after being named artistic director at Dior during the late 1980s is only one of Ferré’s impressive achievements in the fashion industry.

Ferré was born in Legnano and was raised by his mother and two aunts. He studied architecture at Milan Polytechnic but had a love for fashion, and made belts and other items for female friends in his classes. He graduated in 1969.

Ferré’s accessories caught the eye of Rosy Biffi, who operated boutiques in Milan with her sister, Adele. He was encouraged by Biffi to create clothing, and soon began creating jewelry and accessories for Christiane Bailly and Walter Albini. The latter is an unsung hero of 20th-century fashion, while Bailly was part of a small group of prominent young stylistes who helped build a sterling reputation for French ready-to-wear fashion during the 1960s. Ferré’s work was photographed by Italian Vogue, and he secured commissions from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Elio Fiorucci.

Ferré appreciated other cultures and drew inspiration from his travels abroad. His most influential trip — a years-long stint in India — saw him bringing bright colors and patterns to his evening dresses and day dresses. While there he created a collection for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili. Ferrè designed for brands such as Les Grenouilles and Baila, and met with Italian businessman and clothing manufacturer Franco Mattioli, who would become an important collaborator. 

In 1978, Ferré and Mattioli became equal business partners in establishing Ferré’s own label, for which he designed women’s ready-to-wear and menswear collections in Milan. In 1983, he was named the first professor of fashion at the Domus Academy. 

While teaching, Ferré won the Occhio d’Oro — Italy’s award for best fashion designer — six times. In 1986, he introduced his first women’s fragrance, his first couture and fur collections, and a new line called Studio 00l. A few years later, Bernard Arnault, owner of Christian Dior, appointed him artistic director. 

It was unexpected for an Italian to be given the job at Dior — one of fashion’s most coveted roles — as that position traditionally went to French designers. There, as Marc Bohan’s successor, Ferré created luxurious and striking gowns that drew on his architecture studies in their sculptural forms while celebrating the long history of the legendary house. He revisited the nipped-waist silhouettes of Dior’s postwar years, and his work dazzled onlookers and exuded femininity. Ferré won the Dé d'Or prize in 1989 for his first collection at the label.

In the early 1990s, Ferré designed the Lady Dior handbag (prior to its 1995 debut, it was called the Chouchou). The boxy top-handled accessory soared to immense popularity after French first lady Bernadette Chirac gave a version in black leather to Diana, Princess of Wales. Each bag, which was eventually named for the Princess, is made from 130 pieces of leather and worked on by seven Dior craftsmen who spend at least eight hours perfecting it. 

On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Gianfranco Ferré clothing, accessories and handbags and purses.

The vintage sweaters in your dresser may have humble origins, but they can’t be beaten for year-round fashion.

In the 15th century, sweaters originated as jersey tunics and other knitted shirts designed to keep sailors and fishermen warm. Later, during the 1880s in America, these knitted or crocheted vests or pullovers — in Britain, “jumpers” — were thought to substantially help athletes shed pounds as needed. Sweaters were an ideal garment for sports and outdoor events in the late 19th century. The knit fabric permitted movement but the material also protected against the cold. It wasn’t until the 1920s, however, that sweaters were introduced to the world of high fashion, thanks to pioneering designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel and Jeanne Lanvin.

A versatile garment, sweaters go well with most looks — from a casual gathering over drinks with friends to complementing a professional ensemble for the office to a night out at the theater. Simply pair a timeless cardigan with slacks or a skirt and your nicest dress shoes for any occasion, in any season, to tie an outfit together.

Once they were considered en vogue, sweaters were no longer strictly made with natural fibers like wool. Over time, fashion designers introduced the use of softer, synthetic materials. Today, traditional sweaters, such as those made with merino wool, are just as popular as more modern creations, such as the sweater dress. Similar to sweatshirts, sweaters come in all kinds of materials, from light synthetic blends perfect for spring to heavier fabrics, like cable-knit wool, to stay cozy and warm in winter and embrace the Danish concept of hygge.

A crucial factor that goes into selecting the perfect sweater is the material. High-quality wool, such as merino wool, which is soft and breathable, will feel luxurious and keep you warm on even the chilliest of evenings. Alpaca fleece, the fibers of which are native to Peru, offers the same warmth as wool, but an alpaca sweater is going to feel even softer than a merino wool sweater, similar to cashmere. Who doesn’t want a slouchy, oversize sweater made of a mix of mohair, nylon and wool on those subzero East Coast nights?

It’s important to note that wool can be a finicky material, easy to stain or distort and stretch. Synthetic materials are not only lightweight, but a nylon or polyester sweater will also be easier to wash and care for. If you opt for wool, take care of your sweater — fabric shavers, fabric combs and the local dry cleaner are your friends.

Sweaters come in various styles like V-neck, turtleneck and crewneck, which is the most popular style. For those extra cold days, a turtleneck offers added warmth without sacrificing style. Those looking for a casual touch that still emphasizes elegance can opt for a long tunic or scoop-neck pullover.

Maybe Versace or Gucci sweaters catch your eye, or ’90s fashion is your thing and a color-blocked sweater dress or John Galliano cardigan of the era is already a closet staple for you. Perhaps you’d rather opt for a 1970s long-sleeve knit top from Yves Saint Laurent. Either way, you’ll find exactly the black, beige or red vintage sweater you’re looking for in men, women or unisex styles today on 1stDibs.