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Glass Head With Earrings

Judith Leiber Exquisite Crystal Encrusted Figural Woman Minaudière circa 1980s
By Judith Leiber
Located in University City, MO
evening bag is designed with an elegant woman's head. Encrusted with contiguous rows of intricate tiny
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Judith Leiber for sale on 1stDibs

When it comes to handbags, no designer can compete with Judith Leiber’s ability to create magic using opulent crystals and wildly imaginative and playful shapes. The Hungarian-born designer's lauded vintage minaudières (small, decorative handbags, often without handles or a strap) were made in the form of crystal-covered swans, cupcakes, lipstick, wads of cash, teddy bears and other delightful objects.

These dazzling objets d’art have been regularly seen in the hands of First Ladies, movie stars on the red carpet and even in the prestigious collections of institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art. And like many pathbreaking inventions in the history of design, Leiber's purses and minaudières were the result of a happy accident.

In 1967, Leiber began working on her first metal handbag. The piece in question was named the Chatelaine, and the design was a graceful drop-shaped purse in gold-tinted metal. But when the samples came in, Leiber saw that the bottom of the bag looked greenish and discolored as a result of the plating process. She had the ingenious idea of applying crystal rhinestones to the base to cover up the flaws. The fabulous bag was a huge success and would become her trademark.

Born Judith Peto in Budapest, Leiber overcame many hardships before her breakthrough. At the start of World War II, she was working at the Pessl handbag company in Budapest where she quickly climbed the ranks to become a master craftswoman. When the war escalated, she and her Jewish family were forced by the Nazis to live in a cellar of a ghetto, and several of her relatives were killed in concentration camps.

“I designed handbags in my head to get through the misery,” Leiber said.

After the liberation of Budapest, she married Gerson “Gus” Leiber, an American GI, and moved to New York. In 1948, she began working for the fashion house Nettie Rosenstein. One of Leiber's first major pieces was the handbag embroidered with glittering rhinestones and pearls carried by Mamie Eisenhower at the 1953 inaugural ball. In 1963, she finally set up her own company.

Leiber’s whimsical designs embellished with Swarovski crystals and semiprecious stones defied traditional notions of luxury handbags. She also created striking clutches and bags with leather and fine textiles from around the world. In her 65-year career, she designed over 3,500 bags, which have been worn by First Ladies including Nancy Reagan and Laura Bush, pop icons like Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez and celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Kris Jenner (who collects Judith Leiber bags).

In 2005, the Leiber Collection Museum opened in East Hampton, New York, as a permanent space to showcase her work. The minaudières remain coveted objects that are celebrated worldwide for their eclectic beauty and glamorous charm.

The value of a good handbag cannot be overstated — find vintage Judith Leiber shoulder bags, crossbody bags, sunglasses and other fashion accessories today on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right clutches for You

Vintage and designer clutches are the perfect size to hold exactly what you need. While they’re typically small, they can make a big impact on an outfit. They also have a fascinating history.

Clutches are handbags without handles that are carried by hand. One of the oldest known clutches was made in Mosul, Iraq, in the 14th century. It was made of brass and inlaid with gold and silver in geometric patterns. Although the loops on the side indicate it likely had handles to wear as a shoulder bag, manuscripts show a similar example being carried by hand.

Fashion designers often made clutches to reflect the wealth of the holder. In Medieval Europe, men and women securely carried items in small bags hidden inside their clothing as tie-on pockets. Women carried their possessions, scented and secreted, in the folds of their voluminous skirts. Pockets eventually became integral to garment design, but bigger sacks were needed to carry books and documents. When women’s clothing became lighter, consisting of fewer layers, it could no longer easily hide their handbags or pockets.

Changes in fashion led to handbags becoming a popular fashion accessory, and today, even as we’re overwhelmed by options from a variety of high-end brands, iconic luxury handbags still rule. The highly decorative bags of the 19th century faded from popularity when women entered the workforce and the clutch became the dominant business accessory. Flappers in the 1920s, clad in the dazzling Art Deco jewelry of the era, also loved the freedom of carrying clutches as they didn’t get in the way of dancing.

The simplicity of the clutch remains stylish today. Once made to be carried on special occasions, they are now an accessory for everyday use. Find a collection of vintage and designer clutches from Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton and more on 1stDibs.