Henry Dunay Sabi Bracelet

Henry Dunay is one of the finest goldsmiths and jewelry makers of the 20th century. The seasoned American designer has for decades created exquisite jewelry by hand that is characterized by bold proportions and precise craftsmanship. Dunay’s breathtaking brooches, bracelets, rings and other accessories have garnered worldwide renown and — on the secondary market — are being reappraised by collectors as icons of contemporary design.

Dunay was born Henry Loniewski in Jersey City, New Jersey, and apprenticed for a downtown New York City jeweler named Rudolph Cacioli in his early teens. He spent a little less than seven years working under Cacioli, and set off to open his own business in 1956. He took on his mother's maiden name Dunay, believing his family name would be an obstacle to his success. At first, Dunay secured work designing pieces for other jewelers, including Harry Winston, one of the first figures in the field to recognize the branding power of lending glitzy fine jewelry for red-carpet events. As his skill set broadened, Dunay began handcrafting his own designs and built a name for himself.

Dunay’s business exploded thanks to the publicity around the De Beers Diamonds International Award he won in 1967. From then on, his fame grew and demand increased for his unique adornments, which feature distinctive metal finishes as well as blue sapphires, pavé set diamonds and a range of other gems. Dunay went on to win more awards from De Beers Diamonds and a wealth of other national and international awards throughout his career.

Dunay garnered acclaim for a sophisticated engraved-surface technique he calls Sabi, which draws on the traditional Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, and iconic figures such as Elizabeth Taylor, Nancy Reagan and Princess Diana all wore his elegant pieces for public appearances. At the 2003 Academy Awards, many celebrities donned Dunay’s Dove of Peace pin, commissioned by Global Vision for Peace and inspired by the work of Pablo Picasso. The designer is a member of the Gemological Institute of America and a past president of the American Jewelry Design Council. In 2009, he sold his company and later established H.D.D., Inc.

Find vintage Henry Dunay necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Today, antique and vintage bracelets are versatile and universally loved accessories that can add polish and pizzazz to any ensemble.

Bracelets were among the jewels discovered to have been buried with Pharaoh Tutankhamun when his tomb was unearthed in 1922, and wrist and arm bracelets were allegedly worn by Queen Puabi in Sumer, southern Mesopotamia. But preceding the adornments of Ancient Egypt and elsewhere, the people of prehistoric times likely wore the decorative accessory, fashioning it from shells and fish bones. When the Bronze Age allowed for more durable materials and semiprecious stones to be incorporated into jewelry, bracelets became a treasured symbol of wealth.

In the thousands of years following the debut of the world’s first bracelets, the artistry behind this common accessory has only broadened, with designers at popular jewelry houses growing more venturesome over time. David Webb looked to nature for his Animal Kingdom bracelets, and for her best-selling bracelets and more at Tiffany & Co., Elsa Peretti would frequently do the same. From bangles to tennis bracelets, the modern age offers plenty of options.

Internationally acclaimed bracelet designs have on occasion become powerful symbols of status, style and, in the case of Cartier's iconic design, love. The Cartier Love bracelet can be found on the wish list of most jewelry lovers and on the wrist of some of the world’s biggest stars. Its arrangement of mock screwheads and distinctive functionality — it was initially locked and unlocked with an accompanying vermeil screwdriver — is an enduring expression of loyalty, unity and romance. (Do you know how to spot a fake Cartier Love bracelet?)

While the Love bracelet has played a role in the skyrocketing popularity of cuff-style bracelets, they are far from the only glamorous option for collectors. Make a statement with an Art Deco design, a style that sees all kinds of iterations fitted with studded cuffs, one-of-a-kind shapes and dazzling insets. A chunky vintage gold bracelet in the Retro style will prove eye-catching and elevate any outfit.

One of the best things about bracelets, however, is that you never have to choose just one. Style icon Jacqueline Kennedy stacked her Croisillon bracelets — designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. — with such frequency that the ornate bangles were eventually dubbed “Jackie bracelets” by reporters. Contemporary silver pieces can easily complement each other, rendering a layering of luxury almost a necessity.

Find a diverse collection of bracelets that you can sort by style, stone cut and more on 1stDibs.