Kurt Wayne Emerald Necklace

Kurt Wayne brought an optimistic and playful style to the art of making jewelry. Celebrated by those in the know for his alluring, offbeat creations that feature south sea pearls, emeralds and more, Wayne strayed from conventional jewelry design of the time, making such bold decisions as setting a square-cut diamond in the center of a polished orb of black onyx. The Austrian-born designer produced lively pendants, rings and brooches made to resemble frogs, canaries and owls, and with radiant starbursts and clustered stones, Wayne's style was meant to bedazzle as much as it was to stoke the imagination.

Not much is known about the life of Kurt Wayne. He is believed to have been born in 1909, in Vienna, and was reportedly fostered by a jeweler at the age of ten. Under the jeweler's tutelage, Wayne learned about watchmaking and how to work with gold, silver and precious stones.

At the time, the whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery that had characterized the Art Nouveau style — cemented in Viennese culture by artists such as those in the Wiener Werkstätte collective and others working in the Jugendstil style in Germany and Austria — had given way to Art Deco’s geometric diamond brooches and long pearl necklaces.

In 1937, Wayne emigrated to the United States and settled in New York City. He is said to have established his own business in 1945 and found great success in making jewelry. Throughout his career, he developed close ties to the Zale family of Zale jewelers and with Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus.

Wayne created imaginative modernist cocktail rings and other accessories during the 1970s and 1980s that are still widely collected today.  

Find vintage Kurt Wayne necklaces, earrings and bracelets on 1stDibs.

We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners.

Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers. 

In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs. 

For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone. 

Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage necklaces designed by David Webb — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt. 

On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.