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Subversive, maximalist and unabashedly seductive, Gianni Versace’s (1946–97) designs infused high fashion with an entirely new ethos. “I don’t believe in good taste,” the legendary Italian couturier once explained. Instead, he had a sexy good time with fashion — as he did with life. Today, vintage Versace clothing, handbags and other accessories look astonishingly fresh and freshly relevant.
More than any designer before him, Versace mined celebrity, music and Pop art for inspiration. In fact, the New York Times noted in 1997 that the fashion industry “is now driven by contemporary culture because Mr. Versace made it that way.”
Insiders consider his 1991/1992 Autumn/Winter runway show — which featured supermodels Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista lip-synching George Michael’s “Freedom! '90” — the moment when the two worlds of fashion and pop culture became one, changing both forever.
Versace was born in Reggio di Calabria, Italy. His mother was a successful dressmaker who employed more than 40 seamstresses. As a child, little Gianni marveled at her workshop, which would become a university of sorts, where he learned the exceptional construction techniques that were at the foundation of his creative expression.
In 1972, at age 25, Versace moved to Milan to work in fashion. He launched his first collection — and his label — in 1978, with his older brother Santo managing the business concerns. Soon, sister Donatella, whom Gianni dressed and took to discos when she was still a child, joined the family venture, where she had a creative role and managed enormously popular ready-to-wear lines such as Versus.
Vintage Versace — and Gianni Versace Couture, which debuted in 1989 — has become catnip for modern fashion enthusiasts who seek out the now-iconic house codes that originated in the designs of the 1980s and 1990s. His glamorous and seductive apparel — the clingy skirts and slender, strappy party dresses, as well as the erotic magazine ads that publicized them — looms large, but Versace’s art and historical influences were also vast.
Versace was an art collector, and he took on commissions to create costumes for theatrical performances during the 1980s and spoke of looking to numerous cultures for inspiration. This adventurous spirit of design resulted in his creating jewel-toned prints rooted in Grecian motifs, Etruscan symbols, the Italian Baroque and Andy Warholʼs Marilyn Monroe. There were slinky dresses in Oroton, his patented chain-mail textile that draped like satin, and leather bondage ensembles. Sex sold, for both women and men. Wrote the late curator Richard Martin, “[Versace] became the standard-bearer of gay men’s fashion because he eschewed decorum and designed for desire.”
Following Versace’s tragic murder in 1997, Donatella took over the role of artistic director and continued to evolve the house codes with a twist of her feminine and feminist perspective. Today, Santo Versace is chief executive officer of Versace and Donatella is its chief creative officer.
Browse an extraordinary collection of vintage Versace evening dresses, handbags, day dresses, accessories and more on 1stDibs.
Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right Necklaces for You
We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners. Today, Van Cleef necklaces, Tiffany necklaces and Cartier necklaces are some of the most popularly searched designer necklaces on 1stDibs.
Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers.
In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs.
For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone.
Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage David Webb necklaces — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt.
On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Dior, Chanel and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.
- Does Versace make furniture?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Yes, Versace makes furniture.
- What made Versace so famous?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMarch 31, 2023Versace became famous for bold, sexy designs that stood out among other fashions of the late 1980s and 00s. More than any designer before him, the fashion house's founder, Gianni Versace, mined celebrity, music and pop art for inspiration, and his subversive, maximalist and unabashedly seductive designs infused high fashion with an entirely new ethos. On 1stDibs, shop a range of Versace pieces from some of the world's top boutiques.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Versace designs a wide range of shoes, clothes, and accessories for men, women, and children, plus a range of housewares. The luxury brand is most famous for its shoes, bags, watches, and ready-to-wear clothing. Versace also has a collection of home goods, including dishes, linens, kitchen tools, and home decor. Shop a collection of authentic Versace clothes, accessories, and decor from some of the world's top boutiques on 1stDibs.
- What fabric does Versace use?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Versace uses a wide variety of Italian-sourced fabrics to create its products. Creative director Donatella Versace has cited lightweight materials such as satin, shiny jersey and wool crepe as being among her favorites to work with. Shop a collection of vintage and contemporary Versace clothing on 1stDibs.
- What fabric did Versace create?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022In 1982, Versace created a one-of-a-kind metallic mesh fabric called Oroton. This golden fabric resembles very fine netting and is loved for its liquidy, shimmering appearance and drapability. Versace won an award for the fabric, which he developed with the help of engineers. On 1stDibs, find vintage and modern Versace pieces from top sellers worldwide.
- What are Versace chains made of?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022The composition of a Versace chain depends on the product in question. For more information about specific products, consult the brand’s website. Shop a collection of expertly-vetted vintage and modern Versace accessories from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
- What is Versace eco-leather?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Eco-leather is a term that has some overlap between different users which leads to confusion. It’s sometimes a term used for synthetic leather substitutes, while other times it refers to genuine leather that has been cured and tanned with a process that has a low environmental impact. For information about specific products that use the term, consult the brand’s website. Shop a collection of Versace accessories from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs .
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Versace’s Tribute Collection is a collection created by Donatella Versace as a tribute to her brother and the company’s founder, Gianni Versace, to mark the 20th anniversary of his tragic death. It features the return of 12 of Gianni’s most iconic prints from the period 1991-97, many in modern reinterpretations. Shop Versace clothing and accessories from the Tribute Collection on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Versace signature print garments feature the bold and daring print patterns that have characterized some of the company’s most memorable designs. On 1stDibs, you’ll find a collection of vintage and contemporary Versace garments from some of the world’s top sellers.
- What fabric did Versace invent?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Gianni Versace invented “Oroton,” a unique metal mesh ‘fabric’ that allowed him to create shimmery effects inspired by classical draperies. Versace debuted this revolutionary material in the early 1980s, and it has continued to captivate audiences ever since. Shop a collection of Versace Oroton garments on 1stDibs from some of the world’s top sellers.
- Is Versace considered luxury?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 27, 2024Yes, Versace is considered luxury. The Italian fashion house creates apparel and accessories out of fine materials and manufactures them under strict standards to deliver pieces of exceptional quality. In the past, Versace did have a lower-priced diffusion line known as the Versace Collection, but it was discontinued in 2005. Shop a collection of Versace apparel and accessories on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021There are numerous ways to tell if a Versace belt is real. Versace uses the Certilogo security feature, which is a twelve-digit security code that is attached to every label. Additionally, real Versace belts will have more detailed belt buckles than the original. Fake belts are known for having larger screws. Real Versace belts will be made of high quality leather and have uniform stitching.