Cartier Pocket Watches

King Edward VII of England called Cartier the “jeweler of kings and king of jewelers.” Established in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the French maison was from its beginnings a darling of the aristocracy. But Cartier is also known for its luxury watches. It was the founder’s grandson, Louis Cartier, who cemented its reputation as a trendsetting watchmaker. In 1904, he made one of the first men's wristwatches for a friend, Brazilian coffee-plantation heir Alberto Santos-Dumont.

Although the pocket watch was the de rigueur men’s accessory of the day, Santos-Dumont, a pioneering aviator, found his own hard to consult while keeping his plane aloft. Louis fashioned a timepiece with a flat, square case on a leather strap that could be referred to easily at a glance. Named in honor of Louis’s friend, the Santos was eventually produced for sale in 1911.

Deemed daring and modern, men’s wristwatches became a vogue among the elite. Capitalizing on his success, Louis released the Tonneau in 1906. Its barrel-shaped case, another departure from the traditional round pocket watch, was embraced by other savvy watchmakers and remains a perennial favorite.

However, the Tonneau was soon eclipsed by Louis’s most iconic design. During the First World War, he was so impressed by the Renault tanks he saw on the Western Front that in 1917, he created a watch inspired by their industrial forms — the Cartier Tank watch.

Louis’s inventive streak didn’t stop at men’s watches. In 1906, he took a traditional round ladies’ case and stretched it into an elegant oval. The style was later dubbed the Baignoire for its resemblance to the elongated curves of a bathtub. In 1914, he commissioned artist George Barbier to illustrate an invitation to an upcoming exhibition. The resulting Dame à la panthère marked the debut of the animal that would become synonymous with the house.

That same year, Cartier introduced its first jewel incorporating the panther motif: a diamond watch with onyx spots, the inspiration for the current women’s Panthère model. After Louis’s death, in 1942, his legacy continued in the brand’s penchant for timepieces with unusual shapes. Its ultimate expression may be the Dalí-esque Crash watch, introduced in 1967 and said to be modeled on a Baignoire pulled from a car wreck.

Browse an expansive collection of unique Cartier wristwatches and pocket watches today on 1stDibs.