1920s Earrings

Stamped "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by French Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel beginning in 1924, these floral-motif wired earrings with early handcrafted brass clips are decorated with button-like cultured mother-of-pearls mixed with Parisian organically-coated lampwork glass, which we photographed in indoor sunlight for the most accurate colors. The pair were designed by Chanel to accessorize a one-of-a-kind clothing ensemble (likely including cultured-pearl buttons and a brooch) for a client of this pearl-associated couturier whose earliest one-of-a-kind jewelry--unlike other 1920s fashion designers--sometimes mixed real and faux gems. The intricate glass artistry, wired clustered arrangement and earring findings are characteristic of one of Chanel's first Parisian paruriers, Louis Rousselet, who was a lampwork master with a workshop since 1920 specializing in faux-pearl glass beads and wire-work construction. As the three-piece flat-brass lever clips without hinge-holes on both sides predate Rousselet's wire-horseshoe clips, they can be dated like the patinated well-worn brass hardware to the mid-1920s. The beads of various sizes and ecru colors that are wired to each earring include five round graduating iridescent mother-of-pearl disks, along with lampwork glass replicating nine baroque pearls, five round pearls and two seed pearls. There are natural imperfections on the green-and-rose-reflecting cultured pearls, while there is some nacre-enamel loss on the glass beads that is not eye visible. On closer view, one of the central round glass beads has a lighter blister, which appears like the texture of some uncultured pearls. Of note, Chanel did not include a brand signature on any of her couture costume jewelry prior to the mid-1950s. As many of her clients who came to Paris for their couture-clothing fittings were foreign, the coordinated unique jewelry that was expected to leave the country was merely stamped "Made In France" or "France". We acquired these earrings in The States along with a similar set with less but larger "petals, berries and leaves", which we priced the same in a different listing despite the slightly greater size and weight of this pair. So we know that they both were created for a single commission of multiple unique earrings with like lampwork-glass shapes and findings to be paired with the ecru mother-of-pearls provided by Chanel. While we have acquired over a dozen pre-signature pieces commissioned by the founder, these are the earliest earrings that we have discovered by Chanel. We have never found a single match to contradict our recognition of her early couture creations nor to attribute them to another designer. Further, Art Deco couture...

Marked "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel since 1924, these beaded early-handcrafted-clip earrings are arranged with wire in a floral motif featuring button-like mother-of-pearls accented by smaller pieces of lampwork glass with an ecru organic coating that mimics pearl nacre. The pair were designed to accessorize a one-of-a-kind clothing ensemble (likely including cultured-pearl buttons and a brooch) for a client of the pearl-associated French couturier whose earliest jewelry--unlike her fashion-designer peers--sometimes mixed real and faux gems. The glass artistry, clustered arrangement and earring findings are characteristic of one of her Parisian paruriers, Louis Rousselet, who was a lampwork master with a workshop since 1920 specializing in faux-pearl glass beads and wire-work assembly, along with other decorative elements. Since the three-piece flat-brass lever clips without hinge-holes on both sides predate Rousselet's wire-horseshoe clips, they can be dated like the patinated brass hardware to the mid-1920s. The beads of various sizes and shades of white that are wired to these earrings include four round graduating iridescent mother-of-pearl disks, along with lampwork glass replicating four baroque pearls, three round pearls and two seed pearls. There are natural impurities present on the green-and-pink-reflecting cultured pearls, while we can clean dust from the coated-glass crevices upon request. Of note, Chanel did not include a brand signature on any of her couture costume jewelry prior to the mid-1950s. As many of her clients who came to Paris for their couture-clothing fittings were foreign, the coordinated unique jewelry that was expected to leave the country was merely stamped "Made In France" or "France". We acquired these earrings in The States along with similar pair with additional but smaller "petals, berries and leaves" from the same Rousselet commission. Further, Art Deco couture...

Since 1920, Parisian costume-jewelry glass-master Louis Rousselet was among a handful of paruriers favored by the leading French couture houses, primarily Chanel. Beyond the stamped ...

Attractive Art Deco Sterling Crystal Paste Drop Earrings with screw back fittings. Lead crystal square and baguette stones are linked in a flexible Deco ...

Antique Indian Gemstone Earrings set with a mix of pastes and semi precious stones. Set in gilded silver. These are not completely symmetrical, as t...

Product details: The earrings are made out of 18K white gold, carved coral, 1.34 ct of round brilliant cut diamonds, with fresh water pearls and black enamel. It features stud closure.

Delicate Art Deco Chinese blue glass earrings set in silver from the 1920's. Screw back fittings with bezel set drops and filigree floral caps. Exc...

Louis Rousselet Art Deco 1920's earrings with silver gilt metal work and hand made glass long pearl fringe. Excellent Condition. Screw back fittings. Mar...

KTF Trifari Alfred Philippe tri color Art Deco pave swirl earclips . Of faux ruby ,sapphire and emerald pressed glass fruit salad andpear shape cabocheons set in rhodium plate ba...

Delicate Art Deco faux pearl fringe earrings with filigree stations. Nicely detailed with both smooth and baroque faux pearls. 1920's USA. Sterling screw...

Louis Rousselet Art Deco faux jade long drop earrings of hand made pate de verre beads and pearl rondelles. 1920's France. Screwback Fittings. Excellent Condition. Length 2.50" Wid...

Lovely Louis Rousselet Art Deco faux pearl long articulated earrings. Of signature curled silvered metal findings with center focal pearl cabochon and three graduated faux pearl ring...

Art Deco Chinese Coral Earrings with Mother of pearl "Eternity Knot" motifs. Tiny coral seed beads are used to form connectors and tassels. Silver screw ...

Attractive Art Deco reverse carved crystal and marcasite earrings set in sterling silver. Floral bouquets are etched into crystal drops and rose cut cabochons are used on the ear. A ...

Elegant French Art Deco sterling silver and crystal paste articulated drop earrings with faux tear drop pearls. 1920's Germany. Clip back fittings. ...

Unusual French Art Deco Marcasite and Rock Crystal Earrrings from the 1920's. An openwork matte black enamel tear drop is set with marcasites and falls from a single paste on the ear...

Peking Glass earrings from the Art Deco period. Screw back fittings with Czech glass beads. 1920's Czech. 2.5" x .5". Excellent condition.

Deco green celluloid pave set earrings from the 1920's. The angular forms are set with faux emerald pastes. Screw back fittings. Excellent condition....

Louis Rousselet Art Deco faux coral drop earrings of hand made pate de verre glass beads. 1920's France. Clipback Fittings. Excellent Condition. Length 2.50" Width .50"

Elegant French Art Deco sterling silver and crystal paste articulated drop earrings with faux round pearls. 1920's France. Excellent Conditi...

Amazing Art Deco Rock Crystal Fringe Earrings set in gilded silver. Wonderful and unusual design with fringes of rock crystal beads falling from 3 faceted crystal donuts with floral ...

Vintage Art Deco Pearl & Rhinestone Long Earrings - circa 1920s. These earrings are in excellent condition. Length- 4.25"