MOSCHINO Lipstick & Compact Color Block Top Handle Double Bag & Strap, c. 1991
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MOSCHINO Lipstick & Compact Color Block Top Handle Double Bag & Strap, c. 1991
About the Item
Moschino
The Moschino story begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.
Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.
Moschino’s expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and his close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique. Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.
“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”
Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe. In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap & Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion-show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.
After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.
Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie. “I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”
Find vintage Moschino clothing on 1stDibs.
- MOSCHINO COUTURE S/S 1993 Fleur-de-Lis Appliquéd Blue & Red Top Handle BagBy Franco Moschino, Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEEarly Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this. This exceptional and rare Spring/Summer 1993 Moschino box bag is a love letter to Italy and dedicated to the city of Florence. It showcases some heraldic symbols, the so called 'Giglio' – a stylized red iris that is the emblem of the Tuscan capital – and the Florentine colours. The design is a wonderful example of Franco Moschino's fanciful creations and captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. I am delighted to have found documentation of the matching jacket (I had in the shop as well) with a photo of a "Tribute to Florence" window display from January 1993 in the book about Moschino "X Anni di Kaos! 1983 1993". See the last two pictures. The twin of the jacke is part of the permanent collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The top handle bag features 22 gold metal fleur-de-lis studs set onto a royal blue patent leather on one side and an oversized cream patent leather fleur-de-lis on the other side sewn onto cherry-red patent leather. The sides are cross-striped in black and white and the bottom plain cream with five gold metal bag...Category
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