Brooches

During the ArtDeco period when Gabriel "Coco" Chanel was at her peak as a Parisian couture fashion-designer in the early 1930s, this antique one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurer Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These include the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese military-cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This bright yellow-gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely-undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in NYC. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's couture commission for this purple medallion may have been sparked in the early 1930s when the internationally-new...

A sterling silver amber anniversary (1904-94) brooch #42, by Georg Jensen. The brooch is stamped with the Georg Jensen within dotted oval mark, '925 S', 'Denmark', & '42'. Hallmarke...

The brooch is made of 18 KT yellow gold and set with 2 pieces of rose cut diamonds totaling approx. 0.12 crt I/SI Grade 18 kt: hallmarked 750 Sizes of the brooch: 5.5cm*3.5cm Weight:...

Massive Chanel Cross Brooch in shades of emerald, ruby, topaz and amythest poured glass cabocheons with faux baroque round and pear shape pearls. I...

Andreas Odenwald Jugendstil Brooch, circa 1905 Jugendstil Brooch Silver & enamel H 2.00cm (0.79 in) W 3.80cm (1.50 in) Origin German, c. 1905 Marks AO monogram 900 & GESCHUTZ ...

A finely worked sculptural brooch of a 'Fox & Stag' in gold & diamond Additonal Information: Material: Gold and Diamond German, c. 1895 Marks: '‘750' & makers monogram 'TB' in a shie...

Antique fine quality Art Nouveau / Jugendstil silver poppy brooch - hand made - featuring a pierced design with hand tooled details - hinged pin to the back - unsigned - stamped '800...

Jugendstil Brooch Attributed to Fritz Wolber, circa 1900 llustrated in our book: Beatriz Chadour-Sampson & Sonya Newell-Smith, Tadema Gallery London Jew...

An elegant 1980s oversized cross-pin brooch created by French designer Edouard Rambaud, Paris. Features a byzantine-inspired design with a gilt metal ...

Rare, large Ostrogothic silver eagle-headed buckle, circa 6th Century A.D. A bold projecting eagle head profile set with a cabochon ruby color glass eye, the neck chased with linear ...

MARTIN MAYER - Jugendstil cabochon cobalt blue Spinel (approx. .51 carats - 5 x 3.5 x 3 mm.) and milgrain set diamond bar brooch - platinum topped 18K yel...

Dramatic 18k yellow gold filagree bow brooch pendant featuring a leaf and scroll design accented with cabochon emerald and man made faceted rubies. The back has a "c" clasp and a hook so you can wear it as a pendant / enhancer as well. The rubies are synthetic and the emerald cabochons are cracked - I believe this piece was made during World War II and they used family stones and what they could get their hands on. 3.8" across by 2.35" wide This piece is in the Byzantine Style. Below is the history of Byzantine Jewelry from Lang Antiques: Byzantine jewelry was a full continuation of the Roman traditions which were kept alive behind the high walls of the new capital, Constantinople. The Roman techniques and styles continued to form the foundation of Byzantine goldsmith‘s skills who weren’t complete copycats; some innovations such as the use of Christian iconography and further specialisation of new and old techniques occurred. Production in the old jewelry centres of Alexandria and Antioch gave way to an increased production in Constantinople. Byzantine jewelry had a huge influence on the manufacturing of personal decoration in the rest of the Medieval world. The Carolingian (start 742 AD) and the later Ottonian courts (start 962 AD) were linked to the Byzantine empire and adopted their fashion resulting in the northern European Romanesque jewelry style. In the Byzantine Empire jewelry...

One (1) 14K. Yellow Gold and Silver Diamond Brooch Signed: VDS+ = Workmaster: S.van der Sluis Utrecht ca 1925 set with: 3 pear shape natural d...

S.Georgios designer pendant enhancer is handmade in 18 Karat yellow gold. It is microscopically decorated with granulation work beads and wires and has a gorgeous unique velvet backg...

This vintage set of signed Hattie Carnegie enamel clip on earrings and small pin and or pendant is reminiscent of a bygone era of Elizabethan meets byzantine influence. The colors ar...

Chanel large square shaped cruciform pendant-brooch composed of ruby, emerald, and pearl square cabochons. The center being a signature "Chanel" coin medallion...

Chanel's appropriation of Byzantine and Renaissance forms continued throughout her career, often in the form of oversized cruciform brooches and pendants. This one is set in bronz...

Coco Chanel Early Byzantine heart brooch, The silvered metal heart set with crystal pastes and appliqued with faux emerald hand formed pate de verre ro...

Massive Multi Colored Byzantine Crest pendant brooch made by Maison Gripoix, France. Poured glass with rhinestone encrustations forming a large crest ...

Jugenstil Diamond Pendant Brooch, circa 1890 18ct yellow gold and silver set, diamonds. Setting diamonds in silver, “silver set”, was a techni...

S.Georgios designer Pendant - Brooch is all handmade from solid 18 Karat White Gold and custom-made. This stunning jewel is microscopically decorated with granulation work with yello...

S.Georgios designer Unique Butterfly Pendant - Brooch is handmade in 18 Karat Yellow Gold all custom-made. This gorgeous jewel is microscopically decorated with granulation - yellow ...

Massive Chanel Cross Brooch in shades of emerald, topaz and amythest poured glass cabocheons with faux pearls by Maison Gripoix. Intricate scroll...

Glamorous Roger Jean Pierre French brooch clip from the 1950's with aurora and clear crystal paste stones. The fur clip is attached to a tiered elem...

Chanel byzantine style crest brooch by Maison Gripoix. Poured glass emerald and ruby oval and heart shape cabochons are mixed with faceted cut topaz stone...

A beautiful and rare 18k gold brooch by Theodor Fahrner, in a rectangular gateway design, with a pearl and a red enamelled ring around it in the center, hinged to a diamond-set column and surrounded by curtain-shaped gold work. Theodor Fahrner was the most famous Jugendstil jeweller from Germany. In 1900 he won the Silver Medal for Jewellery at the World Exhibition in Paris, and subsequently led his family's business to new heights during the Jugendstil era...

Coco Chanel synthesizes her favorite "Go To" motifs into one brooch. The lion (her Astrological sign), the Kilt Pin (her visits to the Scottish Highlands) and the gilt Baroque of her...