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Cartier London Sapphire and Diamond Suite

$77,000

About

This exceptionally rare 1960s sapphire and diamond suite from Cartier London is composed of a brooch and ear clips designed as stylized flowers. The sapphires gradually slope upwards to the center, giving the pieces a substantial three-dimensional quality. Cartier opened its London headquarters in 1902 at the suggestion of King Edward VII who had been a longtime client of their original Paris location. It was he who christened Cartier “the jeweler of kings, the king of jewelers.” As local demand grew, they opened their first London workshop in 1922, employing English craftsmen trained in the Cartier style. The designs produced in London were known for their inventiveness and creativity, unconstrained by the more traditional Parisian aesthetic. The reach of the British Empire also brought stylistic influences from India and the Middle East. Brooch: - 1.55” x 1.69” - 52 antique cut sapphires with approximate total weight of 22 carats - 28 round brilliant cut diamonds with approximate total weight of 1.54 carats - 18k white gold - Signed Cartier London with French assay marks - Circa 1960s Ear clips: - Approximately 1” in diameter - 42 antique cut sapphires with approximate total weight of 12.36 carats - 14 round brilliant cut diamonds with approximate total weight of 1.68 carats - 18K white gold - Signed Carter London with French assay marks - Cartier London Sapphire and Diamond Suite Circa 1960s

Details

  • Creator
  • Metal
    18k Gold,White Gold
  • Stone
    Diamond,Sapphire
  • Stone Cut
    Mixed Cut
  • Period
    1960-1969
  • Date of Manufacture
    1960s
  • Condition
  • Seller Location
    Boston, MA
  • Reference Number
    1stDibs: LU1442110895322

Shipping & Returns

  • Shipping
    Free Express Parcel Shipping
    to anywhere in the world, arrives in 6-7 days, excluding production time.
    We recommend this shipping type based on item size, type and fragility.
    Ships From: Boston, MA
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.

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About the Designer

Cartier

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle reportedly inspired by medieval chastity belts.While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces. It’s certainly one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.
About the Seller
4.8 / 5
Located in Boston, MA
Gold Seller
These expertly vetted sellers are highly rated and consistently exceed customer expectations.
Established in 2007
1stDibs seller since 2018
25 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 8 hours
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