Van Cleef & Arpels Byzantine Alhambra Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels had an immediate hit on its hands when the French luxury jewelry house introduced its Alhambra collection, which includes the charming and exquisitely crafted Vintage Alhambra necklace. Call it the result of the elegant design work that is typical of the house as well as a bit of good luck.

“To be lucky, you must believe in luck.” This mantra was a favorite of Jacques Arpels (1914–2008) — the nephew of Estelle Arpels, who cofounded the maison with her husband, Alfred, in 1906 — and this sentiment is embedded in the Vintage Alhambra necklace. The Alhambra collection, as well as its varied subcategories, has come to largely represent Van Cleef & Arpels. A favorite of glamorous icons who range from Elizabeth Taylor to Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, the celebrated maison’s signature line has never gone out of production. Today, Alhambra includes several new styles, with necklaces, watches, bracelets and rings embellished with various gemstones.

The first Alhambra jewel debuted in 1968. It was an all-gold necklace dotted with 20 gold clovers, edged with gold beads. At the time of its launch, casual and unadorned jewelry was uncommon, and, owing to its simple beauty, delicacy and the fact that it needn’t be set aside for formal wear, the Alhambra necklace immediately garnered the adoration of women all over the world. It’s a classic in the history of contemporary jewelry design, but the origin of its instantly recognizable clover motif has historical significance too. The quatrefoil shape is drawn from keyhole arches that populate Moorish architecture, and the series is named for the Alhambra palace in Granada, Spain, which Moorish poets have deemed “a pearl set in emeralds” for its whitewashed walls encircled by lush grasses and trees.

Within a couple of years of the Alhambra necklace’s debut, artisans at Van Cleef & Arpels were setting the now-famous quatrefoil motif at the center of the series with panels of colorful opaque hard stones, such as malachite, lapis lazuli, onyx and more. What is now known as the Vintage Alhambra collection, which includes rings, pendants and more, is characterized by pieces that feature these stones and a beaded border.

The Vintage Alhambra necklace is also emblematic of Van Cleef & Arpels’s long-standing commitment to fine craftsmanship and its ability to establish enduring trends. With such grand narratives — and prominent figures — linked to the necklace, it is no wonder that it has remained so covetable and beloved since its very first appearance.

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

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