Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
1910s Danish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Moonstone, Sterling Silver
1910s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, 18k Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold
1910s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Ruby, Diamond, Yellow Gold, Platinum
1910s Russian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold, Rose Gold
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Gold, 18k Gold
1910s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver, Sterling Silver
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Blue Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Green Sapphire, Gold, 14k ...
1910s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
1910s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Brass, Enamel
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum, Yellow Gold
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
1910s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s British Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
9k Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, White Diamond, 18k Gold
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Belgian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Platinum
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Natural Pearl, Garnet, Yellow Gold
1910s British Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Garnet, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold
1910s Austrian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
1910s European Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
1910s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
1910s Dutch Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold, Silver
1910s Dutch Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Enamel
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Yellow Gold
