Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
1890s North American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, 18k Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Brown Diamond, Pink Diamond, Diamond, Rose...
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Platinum
2010s Japanese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, White Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold...
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, White Diamond, Chrysoberyl, Sapphire, Pin...
1930s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Diamond, Silver, 18k Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Sapphire, Topaz, Silver, 22k Gold, Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Tourmaline, Dia...
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sterling...
21st Century and Contemporary Canadian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Green Sapphire, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Diamond, Sapphire, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Australian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, ...
Early 2000s German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Blue Sapphire, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Ruby, White Gold, 22k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Diamond, White Gold, 14k Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Geode, 18k Gold, Silver
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green ...
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold-filled, Silver, Sterling Silver, Bronze
1980s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Green Sapphire, Peridot, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow ...
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Sapphire
1880s British Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Silver, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold
2010s Swiss Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Other, Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Green Sapphire, Purple Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yell...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow S...
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire,...
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, W...
20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Morganite, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, White Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, S...
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Quartz, Diamond, 18k Gold
