Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
2010s Israeli Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 1...
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Palladium, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Gold
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, White Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pink Sapphire, Tourmaline, Tsavorite, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, White Diamond, Brown Diamond, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Palladium
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Quartz, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold
1960s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, White Gold, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Silver
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, 18k Gold
1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Yellow Diamond, Brown Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Spin...
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Yellow Sapphire, Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Black Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Tanzanite, 18k Gold, Palladium
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold
Mid-20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
Early 20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Garnet, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Citrine, Sapphire, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, 18k Gold
1910s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum
1910s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century German Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, ...
1950s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
