London - Brooches

A charming gold squirrel brooch by Hermès c.1960s, the three-dimensional brooch finely modelled in 18ct yellow gold as a squirrel sat on a branch holding...

Antique shell cameo brooch and earrings by John Brogden, English, circa 1870. A yellow gold suite of jewellery, the brooch composed of a horizontally situated oval Bull’s Mouth shell cameo of the Greek goddess Selene riding a serpentine dragon in a rubover collet setting, encircled by a conforming frame of gold beading and twisted gold wire punctuated with four gold palmette form plaques engraved and decorated with dark blue enamel and placed at the cardinal points, the reverse mounted with a hinged pin and scroll clasp, the earrings each composed of a vertical oval Bull’s Mouth shell cameo engraved with a bust length portrait of Selene with crescent-set headdress, encircled by a conforming frame matching that of the brooch with the addition of a pendant decoration composed of a horizontal bar of gold beading and twisted gold wires suspending gold link chains graduated from centre and ending in conical gold elements, the reverses mounted with French wire fittings, all in a fitted red leather case, the interior marked ‘FIRST CLASS PARIS MEDAL/ 1855.1867.1851/ PARIS FIRST CLASS & LONDON PRIZE MEDALS/ JOHN BROGDON/ Goldsmith/ MANUFACTORY/ 16, Henrietta St. Covent Garden/ London’. The cameo—defined as a gem, usually either a mineral or a shell, upon which a design has been carved in relief—is believed to have originated in Hellenistic Greece, during the third century BC. These miniature sculptures, at that time confined to the medium of hardstone, are thought to have been made with the primary purpose of personal adornment. The same practice of mounting cameos in jewellery was then continued by the Ancient Romans, and they are known to have been worn by many a Roman emperor. After the fall of Rome the fashion for cameos went into a decline, until it was again revived during the Renaissance period, brought about by a keen interest in the ancient world. At this time both antique and contemporary cameos were mounted in jewellery, as well as collected as objet d’art. The art of cameo cutting was revived in Italy, where it would remain a centre for the coming centuries. Again there was a lull in interest in carved gemstones, until the Neoclassical revival of the eighteenth century, largely stimulated by the discoveries of the ancient Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. As with the Renaissance, antique specimens were generally prized over modern cameos, and the worldliest men in Europe held them among their collections of art and antiques. That said, carving centres in Rome and Torre del Greco (near Naples) in Italy were established in response to the demand of the Grand Tourists, who travelled to Italy and Greece to become educated in the wonders of the ancient world. It was at this time that shell cameos, mostly made in Torre del Greco due to its proximity to the sea, became more popular, owing to the relative ease in carving shell over hardstone. In addition to Rome, hardstone cameos also became a specialty of Idar Oberstein, Germany, which had a long history with both the gem mining and cutting trade. In a shift away from the collector’s cases of the previous century, the nineteenth century saw a strengthening in the fashion for wearable cameos. After the Empress Josephine donned a cameo-set suite of jewellery at the coronation of Napoleon in 1804, cameo jewellery became all the rage. Napoleon played a further hand in promoting the art by establishing a gemstone carving school in Paris, inspired by his appreciation for the arts of the ancient world. By the mid-nineteenth century shell cameos, in part due to their lightness compared with hardstone cameos, were the height of fashion. Large shell cameos as well as hardstone cameos were set into contemporary mounts, often as suites of jewellery. Some of the best cameos of the nineteenth century—carved by a select group of recognized carvers—were set into revivalist mounts, corresponding to the subject matter. In Victorian England cameo jewellery was particularly prized, due in part to the fact that the Queen owned and wore a number of cameo jewels. One example which can often be seen in official portraits is the Badge of the Order of Victoria and Albert, carved by Tommaso Saulini of Rome, who also produced cameos for the maker of the present suite, John Brogden. To meet demand some carvers set themselves up in London, including William Schmidt, a German carver from Idar Oberstein, who produced cameos for top London jewellers, including Brogden, Carlo Giuliano and Child & Child. In fact, Schmidt purports to have been the first to carve cameos out of opal, which Brogden reportedly displayed in the Paris Exhibition of 1878. An extant example, now in the collection of the British Museum, was set by the Giuliano firm. Regarding subject matter, cameos throughout time have been largely figural, from bust length profile portraits to scenes with multiple full-length figures, and sometimes animals. Ancient Greek and Roman cameos often depicted mythological scenes as well as contemporary figures. During the Renaissance, mythological scenes were popular, often taken directly from ancient sculpture, as well as portraits of notable contemporary figures. During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, due to the revivalist styles, both Renaissance and Classical subjects were copied and set into matching (and sometimes unmatching) revivalist mounts. From the Renaissance through the Victorian era, being able to recognize the source of the carving in a cameo was a mark of erudition, revealing in the wearer knowledge of Classical art. As mentioned, the present cameo parure...

A yellow gold and platinum necklace composed of a horizontal openwork oval pendant with a central urn decorated in stripes of green plique-a-jour enamel and bordered with single rows...

Fern lapel pin with rhodium finish Conveying the texture and shape of a fern leaf set in rhodium plated base metal. A highly-polished finish creates a surface which catches the natu...

Miriam Haskell beautiful Russian gold plated brooch, with a lovely ornate flower and leaf design. Measuring diameter 5.2 cm / 2 inches. The brooch is in very good condition. This is...

This charming insect brooch from the Haruni Vaults is handmade in 18k yellow gold with deep blue sapphires forming the body, pave-set sparkling diamonds in the wings, and round ruby ...

A Victorian 9 karat yellow gold ruby owl brooch This charming bar brooch has a seated owl to its centre which is beautifully detailed in yellow and ...

Enamel and gold brooch by Maison Vever Paris, French, circa 1900. An 18 carat yellow gold brooch in the form of a circular shallow concave disk decorated with a poppy, a daisy and a ...

A beautiful vintage Cartier blue sapphire and ruby flower brooch set in 18k yellow gold. The brooch depicts a beautiful flower display...

Rocket Man pin in black enamel Rhodium plated base metal peices inspired by one of Elton’s most iconic songs ‘Rocket Man’. The song describes a Mars-bound ...

Shark Animal pin with antique finish Six refined senses make sharks one of the most highly skilled hunters in the seas, and our fun adaptation portrays the feared animal in action, gripping a lifebuoy with its teeth. The ring has been delicately enamelled with red and white detailing. Set in Antique finished rhodium plated base metal. Perfect to accompany our Shark cufflinks...

This delightful Art Deco brooch is designed in a delicate flower like shape. Crafted entirely in platinum the design features an arrangement of four pear shaped cabochon cut turquois...

Crafted in 18 Carat Yellow Gold this charming brooch features a pair of alert Afghan Hounds. Made in the 1960s this wonderfully crafted brooch weighs 9.5 grams and sits upon a single...

Chanel Word Logo Glass Pearl & Crystal Hair Clip Champagne gold hair clip embellished with 'Chanel' signature spelled in alternating crystals and glass...

A large butterfly en-tremblant brooch, with brilliant-cut and marquise-cut diamond set wings, thorax, eyes and antennae. The abdomen is set with a large oval faceted golden citrine, ...

Micro Mosaic artists tiny handwoven Venetian enamel rods obtained from the high temperature melting of nine base colors with diamond dust, realizing endless combinations of tones and...

Water Tiger mechanical pin with blue Swarovski elements 2022 is a year of the Water Tiger, starting from February 1st, 2022, and ending on January 31st, 2...

Maple leaf design antique 14/15 carat yellow gold pin in the shape of a five corner leaf, detailed down to the ridges, edge, and stem. The leaf itself is 3 dimensional with the edges...

Here we have wonderful emerald and diamond ring from master antique jeweller, Gaetano Chiavetta. This piece has been created using components of an authentic Victorian brooch includi...

Globe Cage pin in sterling silver Our iconic Globe pin captures a miniature world which rotates by touch. Fitted onto a sterling silver circle cage, the globe is made of infused lapis with latitudinal and longitudinal lines. A piece made for the aspiring traveller and perfect to accompany our iconic Globe cufflinks...

A Cartier vintage sapphire turtle brooch pin 18 karat yellow gold, circa 1960. The brooch depicts a swimming turtle with hand engraved yellow gold legs, tail and head. The turtle sh...

A unique bi-colour gold enamel and diamond brooch by Bvlgari. The brooch features four yellow gold floral motifs adorned with a blue to yellow ombre enamel. Set to the centre of the ...

Moonstone, diamond and ruby cabochon brooch by Carlo & Arthur Giuliano, circa 1890. Four large drop shaped moonstone cabochons with an approximate...

A diamond bow brooch, pavé set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, in an openwork bow design, with millegrain edges, mounted in 18ct white gold, with a pin and trombone safety clasp, ...

Victorian citrine and gold brooch. Set with two matching round old cut natural unenhanced Madeira citrines in closed back rubover set...

Art deco diamond brooch. Set to centre with one round old cut diamond in an open back rubover setting with an approximate weight of 0.85 carats, surrounded by 45 round old cut diamon...

A remarkable Art Deco double clip brooch dating back to c.1940s. This intricate platinum brooch has an impressive 167 diamonds, all delicat...

Gorgeous art deco parrot brooch in 18k white and yellow gold. Composed of round brilliant diamonds, green Colombian emerald, blue sapphire and ruby gemstones all mounted in 18k white...

An Art Deco plaque brooch, with a rhombus-shaped outline and a geometric and foliate openwork design, set with old brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing an estimated total of 4.50 carats,...

This is a charming Victorian turquoise and pearl ring. The ring is set with a centre pearl flanked by two turquoise stones in an infinity motif. The ring has been crafted in yellow g...

This beautiful carved coral lady Buddha brooch has a delicately carved hair bun adorned with pearls and small flowers. The collar is made of 14k gold embellished with 7 round cut dia...

Five rubies are surrounded by rose cut diamonds in this Victorian brooch. The rubies are old cut, and are a slightly purplish red. Each ruby is 0.25 carat. Two diamond studded swirls...

Here we have a charming enamel and diamond brooch taken from the Victorian period. This antique piece has been crafted from a rich 18ct yellow gold ...

This is an Art Deco 18ct yellow gold and platinum bar brooch. The brooch has been set with a central dome shaped onyx which has been set with a single old cut diamond. Either side of...

Star Glasses pin with yellow enamel and Swarovski elements Rhodium plated base metal peices inspired by some of Elton’s most iconic glasses. Elton John’s ...

An Odeon Style Art Deco diamond and platinum double clip brooch, in a geometric design, with two tapered columns, pavé set with eight-cut diamonds, hemmed with baguette-cut diamonds,...

Beautiful copper and black enamel mid century detailed leaf and flower brooch. Measuring length 11 cm / 4.3 inches by maximum width 4.1 cm / 1.6 inches. This stylish copper stateme...

A Moira design orange to yellow plique-a-jour enamel flower brooch, with a pavé set ruby centre, and diamonds set to the outer petal edges, with a millegrain edge. Mounted in gold, w...

This Victorian brooch displays a captivating circular design, featuring a single original antique synthetic ruby at its centre. The claw set synthetic ruby weighs 3.50 carat and is c...

This exceptional 1930's handmade brooch/ pendant features a cushion shaped blue sapphire weighing approximately 5.00ct in an open back, rub over setting, mounted in the centre of a b...

This is a rare and high quality 18ct yellow gold talon stick pin. The pin dates back to the early 1900s, is of French origin and plays host to a single blue sapphire. Condition: Us...

This intricately crafted brooch is crafted in the likeness of an owl. The beautiful 18 carat yellow gold feather work is punctuated by a pair of cabochon cut tigers eye stone as the ...

This is a wonderfully crafted sapphire and diamond star brooch. This eight pointed star plays host to a vast array of single and round brilliant cut diamonds; all of which are perfec...

This is a lovely vintage gem set pendant/brooch. The pendant has been set with an array of round brilliant cut diamonds, peridots, rubies and citrine gemstones in a floral design set...

This is an 18ct rose gold diamond safety pin brooch. The brooch is set with 20 round brilliant cut diamonds of an excellent quality. Conditi...

Here we have an antique emerald and diamond jabot pin. This piece was crafted from 18ct yellow gold during the early stages of the 20th century with the head showcasing a single old ...

Cartier emerald and diamond fox brooch. Set with two oval cabochon natural emeralds in open back rubover settings with a combined approximate weight of 0.35...

This beautiful brooch made in France in 1950s is made of 18 carat gold and features a single emerald cut aquamarine of approximately 12 carats and a total of 0.25 carat single cut di...

Here we have a stunning diamond brooch crafted at a time when the Art Deco style was continuing to spearhead the direction of world design. This 18ct white gold piece has been crafte...

This is an antique snake brooch. Fabulously crafted and coiled in 15ct yellow gold to depict the infinity symbol; this piece is set with turquoise stones to the head and garnets for ...

A modern Mississippi pearl, diamond and enamel floral brooch, with three rose-cut diamond set anthers, Mississippi pearl petals, shaded green enamel leaf and sepal with a round brill...

A pair of Victorian gem set butterfly brooches. A pair of brooches, set to the bodies with a cushion shape old mine natural unenhanced fancy colour pink...

Miriam Haskell beautiful Russian gold plated ornate butterfly brooch. Measuring length 5.5 cm / 2.1 inches by width 4.3 cm / 1.7 inches. This is a lovely butterfly brooch with the...

A vintage diamond set bow brooch in 14 karat yellow, white and rose gold, circa 1960 This statement brooch is designed as a stylized bow, in plain polished and satin finish yellow a...

René Kern Owl Brooch in 18K Yellow Gold, Germany, Mid-Century 1960s. An exquisite wearable animal sculpture by the legendary jeweler René Kern. Crafted around the 1960s, this stunnin...

This is an antique pearl and diamond stick pin. The natural pearl features an impressive balance of tone and is a nice even shape. It sits ...

Cartier ruby and diamond 18 karat yellow gold brooch circa 1950. This elegant brooch comprises of calibre cut rubies set within a fine platinum border against contrasting grain set ...

Here we have a fabulous bar brooch crafted during from the pinnacle of the Art Deco movement. This platinum piece showcases a centralised bar section filled with a single row of roun...

This mesmerising brooch depicts a lively bouquet of flowers. Master craftsmanship is on display in the flowers and leaves of the piece crafted from iridescent opals. Are 0.10 carat r...

This original antique piece features a 5.8mm cabouchon onyx diagonally set from a fine quality old cut diamond weighing approximately 0.40ct both rubover set onto a Deco design bar b...