Birkin Backpack

For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.

The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.

In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.

Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.

Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.

In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.

While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.

Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.

Vintage and designer backpacks do more than carry our books, notebooks, electronic devices and other possessions to and fro. They are also a reflection of personal taste and style. Whether it’s an understated solid color — black backpacks will remain forever timeless — or it’s emblazoned with a dazzling graphic pattern or an iconic fashion house’s logo, a backpack makes a statement.

In 1908, decades before the JanSports and Eastpaks of the world materialized, Norwegian Ole Bergan crafted the first backpack, whittling and shaping a juniper branch to support a robust canvas rucksack on his back. Twenty-five years later, the patent on Bergan’s wildly convenient and functional accessory expired, and backpacks became popular with hikers, campers and other outdoor enthusiasts as other designers and companies scrambled to develop their own iterations. During the late 1930s, the first zippered backpack appeared — for students, it was a significant improvement over carrying their books with a leather belt.

Some designer backpacks are sleek and sporty, while others attract attention with flashy brass hardware and a textured exterior flap. While the innumerable handbag lovers of our modern times continue to gravitate toward iconic labels — classic bags still rule — today’s shoppers are savvier and have a wider range of shopping options. Backpacks designed by universally renowned brands such as Gucci, Dior and Burberry are similarly alluring when it comes to finding the perfect carryall.

Heavy-duty nylon backpacks or those made with polyester are likely the most common, but many alternatives can be found in canvas, leather and suede. The best backpack for you might be one that is modest in size and discreet, and thus ideal for carrying a few items. If that sounds like what you need, explore crossbody bags and messenger bags, as they’re a bit easier to access and you don’t have to remove the bag to get to its contents. Others may seek a bag that is spacious enough to fit all of the supplies for an overnight hike, in which case, a sturdy, structured backpack might be a better fit.

Whether it is for fashion, function or both, there is a backpack suited to every individual. Find yours in the extensive collection of vintage and designer backpacks on 1stDibs.