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Cartier Santos Platinum

Cartier Paris “Tortue” Diamond and Grosgrain Wristwatch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Signed: CARTIER on the dial, case nos. 7723, 15094, 8526, French platinum and gold assay marks; Movement
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Early 20th Century French Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

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Cartier for sale on 1stDibs

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right wrist-watches for You

Antique, new and vintage wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

Find antique, new and vintage wristwatches on 1stDibs.

Questions About Cartier
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    The price of Cartier bracelets varies based on age, condition, and rarity. The least expensive versions of the Cartier Love bracelet, for example, can still cost around $4,000. On 1stDibs, there is a variety of Cartier bracelets for sale.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    As one of the top luxury jewelry houses in the world, Cartier uses some of the finest quality materials. The company uses 18k gold in their jewelry and real diamonds.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Cartier rose gold doesn't tarnish but over many years of wearing, rose gold generally is said to become darker. Rose gold allegedly becomes slightly yellower in tone, toward a traditional gold.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Today, the Cartier symbol, or logo, is the luxury house's name written in a clean serif font that mimics cursive handwriting. Typically, the logo is either black on white or white on a black background. Its refined and understated appearance references the high standards that have long been associated with this celebrated brand.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022
    Cartier is famous for producing jewelry and watches out of rare and luxury-grade materials and creating innovative designs, often packed with symbolism. Some of the jeweler's most famous pieces include the modern Love and Trinity bracelets and its custom-made antique and vintage jewelry like the Crocodile and Patiala necklaces. Find a range of Cartier jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 13, 2024
    There are a few reasons why Cartier is so popular. For one thing, the French luxury house is known for its very long history of unparalleled prestige and quality craftsmanship. Cartier has been producing extraordinary jewelry, watches and accessories since 1847. While jewelry lovers have long been enthusiastic about Cartier’s elegant and streamlined designs for bracelets, rings, necklaces and other pieces, the brand is also known for innovation. It pioneered the use of platinum in fine jewelry, and its artisans were so mindful of trends in fashion that the house became the official jewelry supplier to King Edward VII. Later, Cartier’s Art Deco-era pieces would help define the movement with which they are associated. One of the brand’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch, one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. Today’s influencers continue to help popularize the brand, increasing the demand for certain pieces like Cartier buffalo horn sunglasses and the Cartier Love bracelet, an icon of modernist jewelry. Find a wide range of Cartier watches, jewelry and eyewear on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, Cartier watches are considered luxury watches. Cartier is a noted jeweler, taking that attention to detail and access to high-quality metals and jewels to their watches—they spare no expense and are highly desirable. On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Cartier watches from some of the world’s top sellers.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Cartier pieces may be cheaper in Paris than they are in the U.S., but that's because of the exchange rate. Cartier doesn't price the pieces depending on the country.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    A Cartier engagement ring can cost between $3,000 and $800,000. The price depends on the diamond's carat weight and quality.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMay 1, 2024
    Yes, some Cartier watches are automatic but the legendary French luxury house also creates collections that include watches with quartz movements. Cartier’s iconic Tank collection, which includes the Tank Française, the Tank Louis Cartier and other models, features both quartz and automatic options for all kinds of collectors. Each of the watches in the Panthère collection, however, carries a quartz movement.

    While quartz watches are powered by a pre-installed battery and a high-frequency quartz crystal, automatic watches rely on a spring system and are self-winding. An automatic watch does not have a battery and is recharged on the wrist owing to the wearer’s movements during the day.

    It was Louis Cartier, grandson of Cartier founder Louis-François Cartier, who was responsible for bringing watchmaking to the venerable maison when he presented Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont with a wristwatch in 1904. 

    Although the pocket watch was the de rigueur men’s accessory of the day, Santos-Dumont found his own pocket watch hard to consult while keeping his plane aloft. Louis fashioned a timepiece with a flat, square case on a leather strap that could be referred to easily at a glance. Named in honor of Louis’s friend, the Santos was eventually produced for sale in 1911. 

    Find vintage Cartier watches for sale on 1stDibs.