Chushev Gargoyle

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Traditionally considered a ring for men, a vintage signet ring is a popular gift today for anyone who desires an expressive, timeless piece of jewelry that can feature all manner of engraved motifs, gemstones, specific symbols or monograms.

Whether it's an antique gold signet ring, diamond signet ring or some other classic iteration, signet rings get their name from signus, which means “sign” in Latin.

These rings, which may historically be referred to as “seal rings,” date back thousands of years and were used as a form of signature. Whatever may have been engraved on the ring — a married couple’s initials, a family crest — identified ownership for the purposes of authenticating documents and more when impressed on soft wax. During the Middle Ages, signet rings were symbols of power and prestige and common accessories for nobility. Later, during the 19th century, precious and semiprecious stones such as rubies and diamonds were added to gold signet rings as they took on a more ornate appearance than they had previously. 

In recent years, fashion has been primarily about individuality, and nothing is more personal than a jewel bearing a name or monogram. That is the reason jewelers have revived traditional signet rings, custom-engraving their designs with customers’ preferred words or symbols. Those who prefer the thrill of the hunt have a range of vintage letter charms and pendants to sift through.

And it isn't all about men's signet rings anymore, either — the accessory is for everyone. Princess Diana wore a signet ring that was a gift from Charles before their wedding, and we all know that the royals are top-tier fashion influencers, especially when it comes to rings.

Find vintage diamond signet rings, onyx signet rings and other types of rings on 1stDibs.