Jo Riis

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Stud earrings have a unique and rich cultural history. Though their design has evolved, vintage stud earrings are still a classic jewelry style.

Stud earrings are frequently dated back over 7,000 years to Asia, where they were worn mostly by upper-class men to indicate their wealth and status. Although earrings sometimes fell out of favor over the years — such as when ear piercing was prohibited by the Catholic Church in the 13th century — they’ve remained one of the most enduring forms of body modification.

When diamond jewelry gained prominence in the 19th century, thanks to prosperity in Europe and the United States as well as the greater accessibility of gemstones, studs adorned with fine diamonds became popular. Screw-back earrings debuted in the late 19th century and allowed people without pierced ears to don the embellishment. Stud earrings became especially popular in the 1960s.

Stud earrings are simple and usually small in size, making them lightweight and easy to wear. Unlike other earrings, stud earrings have a floating appearance. They are often made with a single gemstone, such as a sapphire or emerald, and a straight post that goes through the ear, typically with a rubber or metal backing to hold it in place.

Today, stud earrings accentuate outfits with a casual, elegant style, adding a bit of glam to any ensemble. Find an eclectic array of stud earrings on 1stDibs.