Moschino Cupid

One name that all vintage experts agree is synonymous with camp is Franco Moschino. By the time he launched a diffusion line called Moschino Cheap and Chic, the late designer had already spent several years shocking and titillating the fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. 

The Moschino story begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.

Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan's Brera Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.

Moschino's expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and Franco's close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique.

Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.

“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”

Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe.

In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap and Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.

After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.

Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie.

“I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”

Find vintage Moschino Cheap and Chic day dresses, skirts, pants and other clothing on 1stDibs.

The vintage sweaters in your dresser may have humble origins, but they can’t be beaten for year-round fashion.

In the 15th century, sweaters originated as jersey tunics and other knitted shirts designed to keep sailors and fishermen warm. Later, during the 1880s in America, these knitted or crocheted vests or pullovers — in Britain, “jumpers” — were thought to substantially help athletes shed pounds as needed. Sweaters were an ideal garment for sports and outdoor events in the late 19th century. The knit fabric permitted movement but the material also protected against the cold. It wasn’t until the 1920s, however, that sweaters were introduced to the world of high fashion, thanks to pioneering designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel and Jeanne Lanvin.

A versatile garment, sweaters go well with most looks — from a casual gathering over drinks with friends to complementing a professional ensemble for the office to a night out at the theater. Simply pair a timeless cardigan with slacks or a skirt and your nicest dress shoes for any occasion, in any season, to tie an outfit together.

Once they were considered en vogue, sweaters were no longer strictly made with natural fibers like wool. Over time, fashion designers introduced the use of softer, synthetic materials. Today, traditional sweaters, such as those made with merino wool, are just as popular as more modern creations, such as the sweater dress. Similar to sweatshirts, sweaters come in all kinds of materials, from light synthetic blends perfect for spring to heavier fabrics, like cable-knit wool, to stay cozy and warm in winter and embrace the Danish concept of hygge.

A crucial factor that goes into selecting the perfect sweater is the material. High-quality wool, such as merino wool, which is soft and breathable, will feel luxurious and keep you warm on even the chilliest of evenings. Alpaca fleece, the fibers of which are native to Peru, offers the same warmth as wool, but an alpaca sweater is going to feel even softer than a merino wool sweater, similar to cashmere. Who doesn’t want a slouchy, oversize sweater made of a mix of mohair, nylon and wool on those subzero East Coast nights?

It’s important to note that wool can be a finicky material, easy to stain or distort and stretch. Synthetic materials are not only lightweight, but a nylon or polyester sweater will also be easier to wash and care for. If you opt for wool, take care of your sweater — fabric shavers, fabric combs and the local dry cleaner are your friends.

Sweaters come in various styles like V-neck, turtleneck and crewneck, which is the most popular style. For those extra cold days, a turtleneck offers added warmth without sacrificing style. Those looking for a casual touch that still emphasizes elegance can opt for a long tunic or scoop-neck pullover.

Maybe Versace or Gucci sweaters catch your eye, or ’90s fashion is your thing and a color-blocked sweater dress or John Galliano cardigan of the era is already a closet staple for you. Perhaps you’d rather opt for a 1970s long-sleeve knit top from Yves Saint Laurent. Either way, you’ll find exactly the black, beige or red vintage sweater you’re looking for in men, women or unisex styles today on 1stDibs.