GUCCI by Tom Ford Long Black Leather Trench Coat, late 1990s
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 50.39 in (128 cm)Marked Size: 40 IT (EU)Bust: 38.58 in (98 cm)Waist: 37.8 in (96.02 cm)Hip: 44.88 in (114 cm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Worn very little, if at all.
- Seller Location:Munich, DE
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU785320790572
Tom Ford
No one understands sex appeal quite like American designer Tom Ford.
An avowed perfectionist from an early age, Ford was rearranging furniture at the age of six and offering his mother advice on her hair and shoes. The designer, author, film director and chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) is one of the most successful people working in fashion today.
Born in Austin, Texas, Ford grew up in the suburbs of Houston and Santa Fe, New Mexico. He briefly attended New York University, where he studied art history before dropping out to pursue acting. He became a regular at Studio 54, with its decadent nightlife later informing his high-octane fashion. He studied architecture at Parsons School of Design before shifting his focus to fashion and spending time at the Parsons Paris campus, graduating in 1985. The rest of the decade he worked for designers Perry Ellis and Cathy Hardwick. In 1990, Gucci’s creative director Dawn Mello hired him as a womens-wear designer.
At the time, the Italian label was better known for leather goods than luxury fashion. It was also nearly bankrupt. After Mello left in 1994, following a Bahrain-based investment group becoming Gucci’s majority shareholder, Ford was named creative director. He soon infused the brand with a fresh sensuality and bold style. His fall 1995 show, in which Kate Moss walked down the runway in an unbuttoned satin shirt, velvet hip-huggers and tousled hair, heralded an exciting, glammed-up era for the once fusty brand. Vogue critic Sarah Mower called it “one of those hitting-in-the-solar-plexus moments.”
As Ford shot to fame, he continued to explore plunging necklines, such as in the black and white looks of the Fall 1996 collection, and sumptuous fabrics like leather and tweed, with the Fall 2000 ready-to-wear collection ranging from sultry silk evening dresses to plush belted coats. He also cranked up the seduction in the provocative ads for the fashion house, particularly with regard to campaigns for Yves Saint Laurent, which Gucci acquired in 1999 (Ford was also named creative director for YSL and designed the brand’s ready-to-wear collection). Gucci's Fall/Winter 1997 campaign featured Carolyn Murphy grasping Angela Lindvall in what looked like a video still; in another shot, a face pressed against a foot in a lipstick-red heel. Each promoted a vision of modern fashion where women were sexually confident, the materials were luxurious and the styles were fearless.
In 2004, Ford and Gucci president Domenico De Sole left the company after failing to agree on the renewal of their contracts. In 2006, with De Sole as chairman, Ford launched his wildly successful eponymous menswear label. The brand has expanded into womens wear, beauty, accessories — vintage Tom Ford handbags are universally adored by celebrities and collectors alike — as well as eyewear and fragrance, with the unisex Black Orchid introduced in 2006. Ford broke into film directing with the critically acclaimed A Single Man in 2009 and Nocturnal Animals in 2016, continuing to blur the boundaries between fashion and culture.
Find vintage Tom Ford day dresses, purses, shoes and other clothing and accessories now on 1stDibs.
Gucci
Long before trend-bucking creative director Alessandro Michele brought his hallucinatory “Utopian Fantasy” campaign to Gucci, it was a modest Italian leather shop. Today, it’s an internationally renowned luxury house with an iconic logo, and vintage Gucci clothing, handbags and shoes are among high fashion's most covetable goods.
Guccio Gucci (1881–1953) admired the stylish suitcases he saw wealthy guests arrive with at the Savoy Hotel in London, where he worked as a bellhop. So, in 1921, after a stint at Franzi, a luggage company in his hometown of Florence, he opened a leather goods shop of his own.
At first, Gucci’s Florence business specialized in equestrian accessories. But as its reputation flourished, particularly among the English aristocracy, so too did its footprint. In 1938, he brought three of his sons — Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo — into the business and expanded it to Rome and later Milan. In the mid-1930s, a League of Nations embargo against Italy pushed Gucci to experiment with alternatives to imported leather. Its woven hemp fabric from Naples, adorned with the brand’s signature diamond print, was a hit, especially among A-list celebrities. The material was first used on suitcases before finding enduring popularity on handbags. (No list of revered designer purses would be complete without Gucci.)
In the 1950s, Elizabeth Taylor carried one of Gucci’s bamboo-handled tote bags, another adaptation to material rationing. After Jackie Kennedy was seen sporting a slouchy Gucci tote in 1961, it was renamed for the First Lady. Then Grace Kelly, on a visit to the boutique in Milan, inspired Rodolfo Gucci to work with Italian illustrator and Gucci textile designer Vittorio Accornero on the Flora print in 1966. Taking cues from Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera, with its pattern of flora and insects, it was painted entirely by hand and featured no fewer than 37 colors.
In 1953, just 15 days after opening his first store on New York’s 5th Avenue, Guccio passed away at 72. The early 1970s saw store openings in Tokyo and Hong Kong, but by the late 1980s, Gucci was floundering. Rodolfo Gucci took charge in 1982, but family drama and lawsuits ensued. In 1993, Rodolfo’s son, Maurizio, transferred his shares in the company to Investcorp, ending the family’s involvement in Gucci. Dawn Mello, then-president of Bergdorf Goodman, joined as creative director in 1989. But it was Tom Ford, who took over as creative director in 1994, who ultimately revived the brand.
Ford’s racy ads, shot by photographers such as Mario Testino, stirred controversy. And his potent vision of sexed-up femininity — with “jewel-toned satin shirts unbuttoned to there,” as Vogue described his breakthrough 1995 runway show — was wildly successful. The new millennium brought new ownership — Pinault Printemps Redoute in 2004 — and a more toned-down vision from Frida Giannini, who became sole creative director in 2006. Alessandro Michele was named creative director in 2015, and the storied brand took a giant leap forward.
Find vintage Gucci clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Ebenhausen , Germany
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- A/W 1988-89 Moschino Cheap & Chic Off-White Laurel Design Padded JacketBy Moschino Cheap and Chic, MoschinoLocated in Munich, DEEarly Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino ...Category
1980s Italian Anoraks and Parkas
- Yves Saint Laurent YSL Grey Faux Astrakhan Fur and Black Velvet Jacket, c. 1992By Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Munich, DEUnusual and rare vintage Yves Saint Laurent charcoal grey faux fur Persian lamb or Astrakhan coat with black velvet collar, cuffs and edging probably from the Fall 1992 ready-to-wear...Category
1990s French Coats
- JEAN PAUL GAULTIER A/W 1985-1986 Green Quilted & Padded Satin CoatBy Jean Paul GaultierLocated in Munich, DEThis is one of Jean Paul Gaultier's rare and runway presented quilted satin coats from his A/W 1985-1986 collection. I am happy to have found documentation of different-coloured twins of this design walking the runway of that year. Please see the reference photos. The very elegant long coat features a flared cut and wide lapels. It is meant to be worn oversized. Fully padded with a beautiful organic shaped quilting. Love that the reverse of the lapels and the inside of the sleeves' cuffs is quilted into squares. The long loose sleeves can be worn either turned-down or turned-up showing that differing quilting. Two patch pockets. The design has no closure and is fully lined in a black silky satin with tonal tiny dots. Labelled "Jean Paul Gaultier pour Gibo' Made in Italy" and tagged a French vintage size 42. Due to its cut and open front it will fit a variety of sizes. Extremely well-made, this coat is a collectible and wearable piece of fashion history! The coat belonged to one of my couture clients from Munich, Germany, and has not been on the market prior to this. Excellent vintage condition. Bust: 136 cm – 53.54" Lapels width: 24,5 cm – 9.65" Sleeve length: 53 cm – 20.87" Length: 143 cm – 56.3" All measurements are taken flat. Bust measurement across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED. Modern Sizing Equivalent: up to L Reference Photos: Picture 1 to 4: Jean Paul Gaultier runway pictures from the designer's A/W 1985-1986 collection. Picture 5: Jean Paul Gaultier 1985...Category
1980s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Yves Saint Laurent YSL Chocolate Brown Velvet Smock Style Coat, early 1980sBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Munich, DEThis easy to wear Yves Saint Laurent coat from the early 1980s is made from plush chocolate brown velvet. The design is meant to be worn loose and has a bit of an artist's smock. It ...Category
1980s French Swing Coats
- YVES SAINT LAURENT 1976 Russian Collection Brown Broadtail & Mink Fur Trim CoatBy Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Munich, DEYves Saint Laurent was one of the first designers to pay homage to Russia and its traditional garments. His iconic and opulent Autumn-Winter 1976/1977 "Opéras – Ballets Russes" or so...Category
1970s French Coats and Outerwear
- S/S 2004 PRADA Runway Beige Brown Python Leather Belted Trench CoatBy Miuccia Prada, PradaLocated in Munich, DEThis exceptional coat was Look 3 in the Spring 2004 line-up from fashion icon Miuccia Prada. Vogue Runway said of this collection: "Over almost a decade of ground-breaking experimentalism, Miuccia Prada has explored everything from irony to deliberate ugliness to intellectual subversion. She’s been there, done that, and has the souvenirs to prove it. For Spring 2004, the designer turned her attention to the stiffest fashion challenge of the day: how to make feminine, happily nostalgic clothes without rehashing the clichés of vintage? “It was about tourism and craftsmanship, many things,” she said of a show that revisited the optimistic fifties to bring back a full set of densely packed suitcases. Out tumbled every possible variation on the classic touring wardrobe: circle skirts printed with illustrated Mediterranean scenes, shirtwaists and Capri pants, sundresses and bathing suits, button-through skirts and lovely evening frocks, silk madras bras and little tulle full-skirted dance dresses. What set the collection apart were the subtle twists, like the way Prada will gently mess up fabric with dip-dye and tie-dye, turn seams inside out, or leave edges raw. Something in the proportion of her neat little tops, belted slightly above the waist, to the fullness and length of her skirts, to the height of her T-strap shoes or pumps, inexplicably excuses the silhouette from the frumpiness of the literal fifties line. Meanwhile, students of Pradaology will note that her sight-seeing tour also revisits some favorite landmarks of her own career: the silk pleated goddess dresses, fur tippets...Category
Early 2000s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Vintage Rare Pierre Cardin Boutique Navy Blue Trench CoatBy Pierre CardinLocated in Fort Lauderdale, FLBeautiful vintage circa 1980 Pierre Cardin Boutique classic trench coat. Made in France. Navy blue corduroy features the traditional storm flap ...Category
1980s French Trench Coats
- SAINT LAURENT By HEDI SLIMANE F/W 2015 Runway CoatBy Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint Laurent, Saint LaurentLocated in Berlin, BESAINT LAURENT by HEDI SLIMANE Rare F/W 2015 Runway Coat With Mink Collar Brand: Saint Laurent Designer: Hedi Slimane Collection / Year: F/W 2015 Fabric: Wool / Mink Color: Black Siz...Category
2010s French Coats
- Vintage GUY LAROCHE 80s Ski Hooded PARKA Gray Red Jacket Down Feather Coat XLBy Guy LarocheLocated in Asheville, NCGuy Laroche, 80's Designer Vintage, Paris/New York, Made in Taiwan, Polyester/Cotton Shell, Down, Feathers and Polyester Filler, Dual Metal Zipper, Button and Drawstring Tie Closures...Category
1980s Taiwanese Anoraks and Parkas
- Vintage 1960's Black Beaded and Rhinestone Floral Evening CapeLocated in Cheltenham, GBThis divine 1960's black shoulder cape, decorated with black sequins and beads, and accented by large claw set iridescent rhinestones, in a trailing floral pattern, is just the perfe...Category
1960s European Capes
- Vintage 1960's Yves Saint Laurent Wool Coat UK 8 US 4By Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Cheltenham, GBA rare and unique piece to behold, this original vintage 1960's Yves Saint Laurent Coat, Rendered in a cream wool and lined in silk, is just the piece to add to your couture collecti...Category
1960s Coats
- Vintage 1960's Christian Dior Wool Coat UK 14-18 US 10-14By Christian DiorLocated in Cheltenham, GBThis rare 1960's Christian Dior mid-season red wool coat, is a rare piece to behold and the perfect statement piece for your transitional wardrobe. The V shaped neckline of the coa...Category
1960s Coats