Stuart Devlin Set of Twelve Silver and Silver-Gilt "Twelve Days of Christmas"

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.

Stuart Devlin was a mid-century modern Australian metalworker whose sparkling creations showcased the luster of silver. He used techniques like filigree and gilding to make a range of sterling silver serveware and decorative sculptures.

Devlin was born in Geelong, Victoria, in 1931. From 1951 to 1955, he taught gold and silversmithing in the town of Wangaratta. He went on to study at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology in 1957 and earned a scholarship to the Royal College of Art in London in 1958. Devlin was awarded a two-year Harkness Fellowship by the Commonwealth Fund, which he used to spend time at Columbia University in New York City.

After returning to Melbourne, he won a competition to design Australian coinage in 1964. His initials are still on the 1966 Australian 50-cent coin. A year later, he moved back to London and opened a workshop. There, he began producing limited-edition Christmas boxes and Easter eggs, which continue to be highly prized by collectors. Devlin also took commissions for coins and medals from countries around the world. From 1979 to 1985, he operated a popular showroom on London’s Conduit Street.

Devlin was widely acclaimed and recognized for his work over his long career. In 1982, he was granted the Royal Warrant of Appointment as Goldsmith and Jeweler to Her Majesty the Queen. From 1996 to 1997, he served as the Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company. In 2000, he designed a coin series for the Summer Olympics in Sydney.

Devlin retired to Littlehampton, West Sussex, where he died in 2018 at the age of 86. As described in his obituary in The Guardian, Devlin sought to bring “delight, surprise, intrigue and even amusement” to modern style.

On 1stDibs, find vintage Stuart Devlin serveware, decorative objects and more.