Jean-Michel Frank & Hermès, a Pair of Black Leather Armchairs, 21st Century

For French interior and furniture designer Jean-Michel Frank (1895–1941), history always had a great allure. He once wrote, “The noble frames that came to us from the past can receive today’s creations.” His career celebrated heritage while promoting new modes of 20th-century design, and it flourished between the World Wars when Frank designed interiors that tastefully mixed extravagance with sophisticated simplicity, often featuring pieces he made with his business partner, cabinetmaker Adolphe Chanaux.

It took personal tragedy for Frank to realize his calling. Frank had been exempted from the World War I draft due to his physical frailty but his brothers both served and died on the front. When his German father applied for French naturalization, he was rejected and placed under house arrest, killing himself shortly after. His mother went into a deep depression and began undergoing psychiatric treatment and died a few years later.

With his large inheritance, Frank joined the Paris culture crowd and there got his start in the burgeoning field of interior design. His signature style, which became known as “luxe pauvre” — “impoverished luxury” — was characterized by clean lines, mixed materials and hard-to-miss details. His interiors for clients including Nelson Rockefeller and Elsa Schiaparelli featured artwork by modern creators like Diego and Alberto Giacometti, Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse. Favoring the color white, he would consider each element of his spartan rooms as part of the whole, from bronze doors to plush antique furnishings, always tastefully rich yet never decadent. He worked on furniture with Chanaux that reinforced this austere style. Some of his most well-known furniture pieces, including the Croisillon table lamps, the Parsons table, brass tripod gueridons and the leather Comfortable chairs that used the Hermès saddle stitch, are extremely simple in their elegant appearance. This attention to refined details, simple luxury and the cohesion of design in a room made him one of the leading tastemakers of 1930s Paris.

After fleeing the Nazi occupation of France (he was part of a Jewish family that included his distant cousin, the diarist Anne Frank), Frank arrived in New York where he killed himself at the age of 46. His commitment to creating home interiors where comfort and fine art could merge and styles could mix in harmony remains influential in design.

Browse Jean-Michel Frank furniture on 1stDibs.

For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.

The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.

In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.

Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.

Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.

In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.

While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.

Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.