Arts and Crafts More Objets d'Art and Vertu

The Arts and Crafts movement that emerged in England in the late 19th century saw a dehumanization of design in the rise of industrialization and mass production of objects. Its practitioners prized craftsmanship and a close connection between the artisan and the entire process of what they were making. This included the design of Arts and Crafts jewelry and watches, which evolved as the movement spread to the United States in the early 20th century.

While much of the Arts and Crafts furniture realm was dominated by male designers like William Morris and Gustav Stickley, several women came to prominence in Arts and Crafts jewelry design, including British metalworker Charlotte Newman and American enamelist and metalsmith Elizabeth Copeland. Many creators were part of guilds, encouraging an exchange of ideas, with some focused on jewelry, like England’s Guild and School of Handicraft — founded by Charles Robert Ashbee — and Birmingham Guild of Handicraft.

In contrast to the Victorian era, with its decadent gemstones and heavy mourning jewelry, designers of Arts and Crafts jewelry looked to the past and abroad for inspiration, from simple medieval shapes to East Asian styles. The movement’s emphasis on natural forms overlapped with Art Nouveau. Flourishes like leaves and flowers formed from silver, aluminum and copper can be found in bracelets and necklaces designed in this style, while rings and earrings are adorned with affordable gems such as turquoise and freshwater pearls.

Arts and Crafts jewelry designers used materials that were often simple, such as semiprecious stones and enamel, which is one of the oldest forms of surface decoration. Artisans prioritized the use of artistic techniques to elevate the jewelry rather than expensive components, and every piece was intended to be one of a kind — a work of wearable art.

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