Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Ruby, Gold Plate, Silver, 18k Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Black Diamond, Rubelite, 18k Gold, Palladium
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver, White Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold,...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, Chalcedony, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Afghan Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tourmaline
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pink Diamond, 18k Gold
2010s Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, White Diamond, Diamond, Aquamarine, White Gold,...
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Swiss Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold, White Gold
2010s French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Black Opal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Austrian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Rhodium, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tourmaline, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel, Yellow Gold
2010s North American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Morganite, 14k Gold
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, White Diamond, Diamond, Aquamarine, White Gold,...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Moonstone, Sapphire, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, 9k Gold...
2010s Colombian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Rose Gold, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Marcasite, Pearl, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Topaz, Blue Topaz, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Austrian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver Plate
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s North American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Topaz, Imperial Topaz, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s Zambian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Diamond, White Diamond, Moonstone, Rainbow Moonstone, Silver, ...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Black Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Diamond, White Diamond, 9k Gol...
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Turquoise, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tsavorite, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
2010s Colombian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Zambian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Turquoise, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pink Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Rose Gold, 18k Gold, White ...
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Pink Diamond, Brown Diamond, 18k Gold, Wh...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold