Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, 9k Gold, Yello...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Silver, Gold-filled
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Garnet, Sapphire, Spinel, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, 14k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Ruby, Green Sapphire, Blue Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plat...
Early 20th Century Swedish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Pearl, 18k Gold
Late 19th Century Swedish Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Cu...
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine
Early 1900s German Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Opal, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Ci...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, Tourmaline, Yellow Sapphire, Sapphire, Peridot, Black Diamond, W...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Pe...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Cultured Pear...
Early 1900s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Brass
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, 10k Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Blue Topaz, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Peridot, Freshwater Pe...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Rock Crystal, Blue Topaz, Topaz, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Pe...
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Fire Opal, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Diamond, Citrine, Gold, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Citrine, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine
Late 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Sterling Silver
Early 2000s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Tourmaline, Gold, 14k Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwat...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Quartz, Fre...
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tsavorite, White Diamond, Diamond, Coral, Citrine, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, Topaz, Peridot, Garnet, White Diamond, Diamond, Citrine, Amethys...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, Onyx, White Diamond, D...
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1930s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Carnelian, Citrine, Gold-filled, Enamel
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Sapphire, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Emerald, Diamond, Citrine, Yellow Gold, 18...
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Lapis Lazuli, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, White Diamond, Black Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Diamond, Citrine, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Citrine, Tsavorite, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Tsavorite, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Rock Crystal, Quartz, Brown Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Diamond, ...
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Yellow Sapphire, Spinel, Green Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, S...
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Gold, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Quartz, Emerald, White Diamond, Di...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Turquoise, Emerald, Citrine, Ruby, Peridot, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured P...
