Carlos Falchi The Buffalo

New York City’s maverick handbag designer, the Brazilian-born Carlos Falchi, began his multibillion-dollar accessories brand in the bathtub of his Greenwich Village apartment.

In the 1960s, Falchi started by making leather clothing — bleaching snakeskin in his tub — for rock stars and jazz artists like Mick Jagger, Tina Turner and Miles Davis. But when he turned his attention to handbags, persuaded by Geraldine Stultz, the president of Henri Bendel, he found his true calling.

In a world flush with iconic “It” handbags, Falchi’s bags are distinctive and eye-catching, with soft, pliable forms, dazzling patchwork designs and dyed skins from exotic animals such as alligators, frogs, buffalo and water snakes. Even though he was a self-taught artisan, Falchi managed to reinvent the approach that yields the stiff, formal structure typically associated with the upright handbags of European luxury houses. His groundbreaking and oft-imitated Buffalo bag, an unconstructed and lightweight satchel made from a single skin with only two seams and a gathered front, went on to garner universal success for the craftsman, with Women’s Wear Daily deeming it “the most copied bag in the industry.” For his celebrated slouchy bag, Falchi was inspired by the draping techniques he learned while attending art school in Japan. In 1983, he won a Coty American Fashion Critics Award for the accessory.

Falchi made his clutches, shoulder bags and top-handled bags by hand in his New York City atelier, and the designer’s work garnered praise from fashion legends such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Barbra Streisand and Sarah Jessica Parker. In the years leading up to his death in 2015, Falchi began to sell inexpensive versions of his handbags on the Home Shopping Channel. A sampling of his work is held today in the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Find a range of vintage Carlos Falchi handbags and purses on 1stDibs.

Ever since we’ve needed an accessory to carry our personal items when we’re on the go, shoulder bags have proven indispensable. Today, vintage and designer shoulder bags are such a treasured part of fashion history that they even get their own museum exhibitions.

Prior to bags becoming an essential piece of any ensemble for any gender, women wore pockets strung on ribbons as garments that were separate from their gowns, accessible by openings in the fabric. Small handbags and handheld purses were developed before the accessory gained importance as functional and fashionable. Most had more in common with wallets than anything else.

While the bags of the 16th century warranted ornament, such as exteriors embroidered with silver-gilt thread and beads, it wasn’t until the late 18th century and early 19th century that the design and craft of bags had really broadened. Handheld purses were finished with details that were meant to garner attention, and bags were fitted with shoulder straps. A stylish shoulder bag meant that women could tote jewelry, cash and perhaps a decorative snuff box full of tobacco to an evening ball across town.

The early 1900s saw the introduction of gold and silver minaudières. The patenting of these compact bejeweled clutches has been attributed to revered French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels, and today they remain a fashion favorite. One of Judith Leiber’s innovative minaudières even earned a role in the movie Sex and the City.

A luxury shoulder bag is a work of art with a long, fascinating origin story, and entire brands and fashion lines have emerged around creating the perfect versions of shoulder bags and top-handle bags. For example, the iconic Hermès Kelly bag, which was popularized by actress Grace Kelly, is a widely coveted, collected and often faked entry from the handbag hall of fame. And while vintage Gucci tote bags have their own dedicated fan base, collectors and lovers of luxury are likely familiar with the Dionysus, a pared-down Gucci shoulder bag that manages to make a substantial statement anyway.

Embrace a classic look with a vintage shoulder bag designed by Chanel, Givenchy or Fendi — find yours on 1stDibs today.