Cartier Happiness Plate

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

While early utensils were often shaped from clay, wood or bone, silversmiths later crafted flatware from precious metal. In the 19th century, mass production of electroplated flatware made silver utensils accessible to the middle class. Now, antique and vintage silver, flatware and silver-plate objects for dining and the home are heritage pieces reflecting this history of design.

Silver spoons were so prized in 15th-century England that people would travel with the valuable utensils. Forks in the 17th century were frequently made with steel and likewise only available to the upper class. Silver flatware continued to be produced in small workshops in the 18th century and was a luxury reserved for the elite. When George I came to the throne in 1714, the silver dining service — including plates, dishes, soup tureens, chargers and sauceboats — became all-important.

Innovative manufacturing techniques such as the electroplating process in the 19th century would transform silversmithing with industrialization. Sheffield plate was used from 1750 to 1880 and involved a fusion method to fabricate everything from knife handles to serveware. French industrial chemist Henri de Ruolz discovered a gilding and silver-plating process for metals in 1841, with the silver-like results so celebrated that Napoleon III ordered a 3,000-piece flatware set. The expansion of table service in the Victorian era also led to an increasing number of flatware and serving pieces in a canteen, or cutlery chest, all with specific uses, from toast forks to butter picks.

While affordable metal flatware is widely available today, historic brands including Gorham Manufacturing Company — whose legendary contribution to the history of silver making started in 1831 — and Christofle continue the tradition of silver and silver-plate flatware.

Browse 1stDibs for both antique and contemporary silver, flatware and silver-plate objects in a range of elegant designs to enhance your dining table.