Double Halo Teardrop Engagement Ring

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Rings have been symbols of devotion since the days of Ancient Greece, a practice later adopted by the Romans for marriage ceremonies. Bridal rings were given an official meaning by Pope Nicholas I in the year 850 as proving a man’s intent to marry his bride-to-be. Antique sapphire and diamond bridal rings continue to hold meaning for many couples today.

Precious stones sometimes adorned these early engagement rings and bridal rings, which were usually gold bands. Diamond engagement rings and diamond bridal ring sets weren’t the dominant choices until 1947 when De Beers popularized them with their “A diamond is forever” marketing campaign.

Recent trends in jewelry design have seen the rise of diverse gems and metals in bridal rings. Rubies, sapphires and other colorful precious gems have quickly gained favor with brides who want a unique and vibrant bridal ring.

Modern bridal ring styles can be breathtaking and break traditional trends, while vintage engagement rings harken back to this rich heritage of design. Featured on 1stDibs is a stunning array of bridal rings from world-famous jewelers including Tiffany & Co., Roman Malakov and Antinori Fine Jewels.