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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design
This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.
Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.
Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.
Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.
When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.
According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.
Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.
- What is a yard of fabric?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A yard of fabric is 18 inches long by 44 inches wide.
- What are yard statues called?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yard statues are often called lawn ornaments or garden ornaments. They include representations of animals, people and everyday objects, as well as abstract designs. Ones with parts that move when the wind blows are known as spinners. You'll find a selection of lawn ornaments on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022The best way to tell if a ruby is a pigeon’s blood ruby is to take the gemstone to a licensed jewelry appraiser. Although you can attempt to identify the stone from its coloration, an expert can give you a more definitive answer. You'll find a wide variety of expertly vetted ruby gemstone jewelry on 1stDibs.
- Are rubies expensive?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Yes, rubies can be quite expensive. Rubies of exceptional quality have recorded prices of over $1,000,000 per carat.
- What is Burmese ruby?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022A Burmese ruby is a precious gemstone that ranges in color from dark pink to bright red. They come from the country of Myanmar, formerly called Burma. Find a variety of Burmese ruby gemstone jewelry from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
- What are blood rubies?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Pigeon blood rubies are brilliantly red rubies with a hint of blue undertones that are found in Burma, which is now known as Myanmar. They are thought to be some of the finest rubies in the world. Shop a range of authentic pigeon blood rubies on 1stDibs.
- Can Rubies be pink?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Yes, rubies can be pink. While the most common and recognizable color for a ruby is red, a ruby can also be purple, pink, and orange.
- What is a Thai ruby?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022A Thai ruby is a deep red corundum gemstone that originates from mines located in Thailand. You will sometimes see them referred to as Siamese rubies because the country was known as Siam until 1939. Find a variety of Thai ruby gemstone jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is a ruby cabochon?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022A ruby cabochon refers to a type of cut with a dome top, and sometimes a dome bottom as well. The dome shape shows off the color purity of rubies and other gemstones without extinctions being present. Shop a wide range of ruby cabochon jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is Ruby used for?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A ruby is a common stone used in jewelry. The benefits of wearing a ruby stone includes inducating the feelings of love, warmth, and compassion in the heart.
- What is a Madagascar ruby?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022A Madagascar ruby is mined from the island of Madagascar. The island is known to have a wealth of ruby deposits. The rubies found here can be quite large, have good clarity and are an intense, medium-to-deep red color. Shop a variety of Madagascar ruby jewelry on 1stDibs.
- Are ruby rings expensive?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021While some rubies can be very expensive due to their deep color, shine and durability, they are less expensive than diamonds of the same size. As a result they can be a popular alternative to diamonds for an engagement ring. Find plenty of ruby rings on 1stDibs today.
- What is ruby red glass?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 5, 2023Ruby red glass is a type of glass with a vibrant red color that comes from gold chloride. Ancient glassmakers once used the technique, which was then lost for centuries. In 1676, Andreas Cassius rediscovered the process, but it wasn’t until the end of the 19th century that glassworks began manufacturing ruby red glass in large quantities. Shop a selection of ruby red glassware on 1stDibs.
- What is the rarest type of ruby?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Most experts agree that the rarest type of ruby is the star ruby. It is a purple-red ruby that shows off a six-pointed star pattern. Most come from Myanmar, Sri Lanka, India, Tanzania and Madagascar. You'll find a selection of ruby gemstone jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is the best grade of ruby?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 5, 2023The best grade of ruby is determined by a range of factors. The Four Cs of selecting the perfect diamond, which are color, clarity, cut and carat, also apply to rubies. According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and that the stone should be clear and inclusion free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights. Professionals recommend that you consult with a jeweler or gemologist in order to best determine which ruby will meet your needs as well as align with your budget. Find an assortment of ruby jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is the best cut for a ruby?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertOctober 19, 2021The best cut for rubies is a matter of personal choice. An oval cut is the most preferred cut for ruby; this is because an oval cut reduces waste. The cut should show off this stone’s color and clarity. According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and that the stone should be clear and inclusion free. Find a collection of ruby jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What do ruby rings symbolize?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 17, 2023What ruby rings symbolize is largely a matter of individual interpretation. Some people associate rubies with passion, while others believe the gemstones signify wealth or protection from evil. On 1stDibs, shop a range of ruby gemstone rings.
- What is Bohemian ruby glass?2 Answers1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022In the 19th century, Bohemian glassmakers produced a ruby shade of glass by using copper. It was carved and enameled in the decorative Bohemian style. You’ll find a variety of Bohemian ruby glass products from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Bohemian ruby glass refers to any ruby-colored example of Bohemian glass. Bohemian glassware originated in the Czech Republic in what used to be known as Bohemia. Glassmaking traces back to the 13th century in the region and continues to this day. On 1stDibs, you’ll find a collection of Bohemian glass from some of the world’s top sellers.
- Is synthetic ruby valuable?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021No, a synthetic ruby is not as valuable as a natural ruby. While these stones might look identical to the naked eye, prices vary from $300 to $3,000 per carat.
- How is ruby glass made?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022How ruby glass is made involves adding a dissolved gold solution called gold chloride to the molten glass. In some cases, glassmakers also add a small amount of tin. You'll find a variety of ruby glass from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
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