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Panthère de Cartier Bracelet
Iconic Designs

Panthère de Cartier Bracelet

About the Design

Purchased by the Duke of Windsor for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor — otherwise known as Wallis Simpson — in 1952, the original Panthère de Cartier bracelet is more like a sculpture for the wrist than a piece of jewelry. It features a diamond-and-onyx-encrusted panther with marquise-cut emerald eyes positioned as if they were fixated on prey. Craftsmen at the internationally acclaimed French jewelry house Cartier had already introduced similarly themed pieces, and the Duchess was by then an ardent admirer of the motif.

The panther motif was not a novel concept created specifically for the bracelet. It was instead a long-established icon for Cartier. While the brand was launched in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, it was his grandson Louis Cartier who incorporated the feline figure into its design lexicon. In 1914, Cartier hired illustrator George Barbier to design advertisements for the jewelry house. Barbier drafted a drawing that featured a glamorous woman with an elegant panther at her feet and Cartier loved it. He had an additional connection to the panther in the form of his alleged romantic interest, fellow Cartier designer Jeanne Toussaint, who adored the animal so much that she decorated her apartment with furs and donned a coat of panther fur. Cartier gave her the long-lasting nickname Panthère.

While panthers appeared on Cartier vanity cases and more in as early as 1917, the icon didn’t take on its best-known three-dimensional form until the late 1940s, when the Duke of Windsor purchased a brooch from the house for his wife. This piece, designed by Toussaint — the first of at least two brooches bought by the Duke in this era — featured a gold panther lying atop a cabochon emerald. The couple ordered a panther clip in 1949 — this one accompanied by a 152.35-carat Kashmir cabochon sapphire — followed by the bracelet three years later. While the bracelet is not accompanied by a large gem, it stands out from its predecessors in that its form is articulated so that its linked pieces can move along the wrist rather than remain fixed in place.

The Windsors were not the only customers enamored of Cartier’s panther. Socialites and royalty purchased their own cat jewels from Cartier over the years. Since then, the brand has released numerous Panthère pieces, from the 1983 Panthère de Cartier watch to the 1987 Panthère de Cartier perfume. A special collection of panther-adorned jewelry debuted in 2014 to celebrate the centennial of the icon, although none can quite compare to the Duchess’s original bracelet — it fetched $7 million at auction in 2010.

Cartier Panthere Bracelet

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Cartier White Gold Panthère de Cartier Bracelet N6706219
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
An 18k white gold diamond cuff bracelet by Cartier from the Panthère de Cartier collection. The cuff comprises of two panther head motifs opposite each other pave set with 194 round ...
Category

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18k Yellow Gold Panther Diamond Tsavorite Lacquer Bracelet by Cartier. With 31 round brilliant cut diamonds, VS1 clarity, F color. Total Diamond Weight: .50CT. One tsavorite and Bl...
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This Cartier 'MAILLON PANTHÈRE' bracelet features 18K yellow gold in a three row brick link design.7 1/4 inches long. Gross weight: 26.50 dwt. Stamp: 750 848545 Cartier (French hall...
Category

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Materials

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Cartier White Gold Panthere De Cartier Bracelet 4.13ct H6001017
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Located in London, GB
An exceptional Cartier 18k white gold diamond, onyx and emerald bracelet from the Panthere de Cartier collection. The bracelet features the iconic panther motif set with 2 pear shape...
Category

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Diamond, Emerald, Onyx, White Gold, 18k Gold

Cartier Panthère Double Headed 18K Gold Bangle with Original Box Papers
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Located in Miami, FL
Designed as pair of opposing panthers, set in 18K Yellow Gold and accented by round-brilliant cut diamonds, with Cabochon-Cut Onyx noses, and completed by Marquis-Cut Blue Sapphire e...
Category

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Blue Sapphire, Diamond, White Diamond, Onyx, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Y...

Cartier 18K Yellow Gold Panthere Bangle Bracelet
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Located in New York, NY
Cartier Yellow Gold Panthere Head Bangle Bracelet 18K Yellow Gold A hinged Cartier 'Panthere' bangle in 18k gold, culminating in a sculpted panther head set with peridot eyes, an o...
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Early 2000s French Contemporary Bangles

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Cartier Panthere Panther Black Lacquer Spot Yellow Gold Link Bracelet
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Located in Holland, PA
18k Yellow Gold Panther Panthere Lacquer Spot Link Bracelet by Cartier. Details: Length: 7" Width: 16mm Weight: 42.5 grams Stamped Hallmarks: Cartier 750 579XXX(serial number has b...
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1990s French Link Bracelets

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Yellow Gold

Cartier Panthere Panther Pave Diamond Emerald White Gold Ring
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Located in Geneva, CH
Cartier Panthere Pave Diamond Emerald White Gold Ring 18K white gold Ring overall set with round Diamonds representing a panther, the eyes in emerald and the nose in onyx. Signed Ca...
Category

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Diamond, Emerald, Onyx, 18k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Panthère Torque 18K Two-Tone Gold Bangle Cuff Bracelet
By Cartier
Located in Boca Raton, FL
Cartier Panthère Torque 18K Two-Tone Gold Bangle Cuff Bracelet. The Bracelet measures 1 inch in width and 6 inch in inner circumference. 108 grams. Slightly flexible. Signed, st...
Category

Vintage 1980s French Bangles

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Three Row Maillon Panthere Bracelet
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18K yellow gold featuring 2.79 carats of round-brilliant cut diamonds on alternating maillon links.  Size 7 1/4 inches. Signed and numbered by Cartier, from their P...
Category

1990s Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

Panthere de Cartier Diamond Emerald Onyx Bracelet
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
A timeless piece from Panthere collection by Cartier. The panther’s head is encrusted with pave set diamonds with emerald eyes and black onyx. 360 diamonds with the total weight of ...
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French More Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Onyx, 18k Gold, White Gold

Panthere De Cartier Panther Diamond Tsavorite Onyx Yellow Gold Bracelet
By Cartier
Located in Holland, PA
18k Yellow Gold Panthere De Cartier Panther Diamond Tsavorite Onyx Bracelet by Cartier. With 38 Round brilliant cut diamonds VVS1 clarity E color total weight approximately .26ct 2 ...
Category

2010s European Link Bracelets

Materials

Tsavorite, Diamond, Onyx, Yellow Gold

Cartier Paris Rare Pelage Panthere Bracelet in 18Kt Yellow Gold And Black Enamel
By Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Modern Panthere Pelage bracelet designed by Cartier. A rare flexible bracelet made in Paris France by the jewelry house of Cartier. This Panthere claws Pelage bracelet was crafted i...
Category

1990s French Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Cartier Panthere White Gold Bangle
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
A fashionable bracelet from the famous Panthere collection by Cartier. Featuring green emerald eyes, onyx nose, head and tail. The metal is 18K white gold, weight of the bracelet is...
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21st Century and Contemporary French More Bracelets

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