Art Nouveau Earrings
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
1990s French Art Nouveau Earrings
Gilt Metal
2010s Colombian Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, Emerald, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Earrings
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s Unknown Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s European Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Earrings
White Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Enamel
20th Century Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Earrings
Ruby, Rose Gold, Silver
2010s French Art Nouveau Earrings
Opal, Gold Plate, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1980s American Vintage Art Nouveau Earrings
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
Early 2000s American Art Nouveau Earrings
White Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, Black Diamond, Brown Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
Early 2000s American Art Nouveau Earrings
White Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Green Sapphire, Blue Topaz, Topaz, Pink Sapphire, Sapphire, White Diamon...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Green Sapphire, Blue Topaz, Topaz, Pink Sapphire, Sapphire, White Diamon...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Green Sapphire, Blue Topaz, Topaz, Pink Sapphire, Sapphire, White Diamon...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Earrings
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s North American Art Nouveau Earrings
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Mid-20th Century Art Nouveau Earrings
Pearl, Gold, Silver
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Earrings
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Italian Art Nouveau Earrings
18k Gold, White Gold
