Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
1910s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver, Enamel
1920s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Turquoise, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k G...
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Sapphire, Gold
1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Crystal, Gold Plate
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Crystal
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
Early 1900s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
Mid-20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Jade, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, 9k Gold, Yello...
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
1880s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
9k Gold
1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver, Sterling Silver
1950s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 1900s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Zircon, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s Japanese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Tourmaline, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1920s Austrian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Moonstone, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gilt Metal
2010s Japanese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
17th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Japanese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Onyx, Black Diamond, White Diamond, Diamond, Amethyst, Yellow Gold...
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
1920s English Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
Early 1900s British Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Tourmaline, 9k Gold, Silver
Mid-20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold
1930s European Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Turquoise, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Colombian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Diamond, Yellow Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gree...
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1840s German Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, Gold Plate