Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1920s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Gold, 18k Gold
1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Diamond, Enamel, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Tourmaline, 9k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot
Early 1900s British Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Amethyst, Peridot, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Gold, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Zircon, White Gold, Rhodium, Sterling Silver
20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, 14k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 9k Gold, Rose Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Peridot, Oriental Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pear...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, White Diamond, Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century North American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, 14k Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, Tourmaline, Yellow Sapphire, Sapphire, Peridot, Black Diamond, W...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Pe...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Blue Topaz, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Peridot, Freshwater Pe...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Pe...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Peridot,...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Turquoise, Sapphire, Ruby, Peridot, Opal, Garnet, Emerald...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Peridot, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwat...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Green Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire,...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Peridot, Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl...
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, Silver
Early 1900s North American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green ...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Agate, Amethyst, Carnelian, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ga...
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, ...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, White Diamond, Garnet, Peridot, Quartz, Topa...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Peridot, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, 18k Gold, Enamel
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Peridot...
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Peridot, Turquoise, 9k Gold, Yel...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green ...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Green Sapphire, Peridot, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow ...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl...
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Rhodium, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Sterling Silver, Rhodium
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Rhodium, Sterling Silver
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Peridot, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire,...
2010s British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, White Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green ...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Citrine, Freshwater Pearl...
1920s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Peridot, Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Diamond, White Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Morganite, Peridot, 14k Gold, Platinum, Enamel
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Natural Pearl, Peridot, Diamond, 18k Gold
