018 Solitaire

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Even as jewelry trends have come and gone, antique and vintage diamond solitaire rings are a classic fashion piece. Although enduringly popular as an engagement ring style, a solitaire ring — whether it's an emerald solitaire ring, a sapphire solitaire ring or another iteration — makes a fantastic addition to any outfit with a variety of shapes and settings to explore.

Solitaire rings have a single stone setting and a minimalistic band in which pressure, bezel or prongs hold the stone in place. They have a long history in jewelry, such as an example discovered in Israel with a single amethyst that could be as old as the third century A.D.

Simple gold rings with single diamonds were prized possessions in Ancient Rome. However, it was not until the 1940s that engagement rings with a solitaire diamond setting became widely popular.

After the turmoil of the Great Depression and World War II led to a decline in diamond prices, De Beers saw an opportunity. The diamond magnate teamed up with the ad agency N.W. Ayer for the “A Diamond Is Forever” campaign. It was a sensation and cemented the solitaire diamond as the leading engagement ring. Statistics show that diamonds are the most common gemstones for engagement rings, preferred by 87 percent of people. (On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.) 

Today, the design of solitaire rings takes many forms, and those created by Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and other internationally celebrated jewelry houses are particularly sought-after accessories. Though the single-stone setting remains the same, bands have become more detailed, with some containing other stones or even multiple diamonds. Art Deco, Art Nouveau and other art movements have influenced the design of solitaire rings over the years. However, the simplicity of this accessory remains timeless.

Browse 1stDibs for a unique selection of antique and vintage solitaire rings to accent any fashion choice.