Nouveau Sapphire
Antique 1890s French Art Nouveau Cufflinks
Ruby, Sapphire, Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Russian Art Nouveau More Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold
20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Cluster Rings
Diamond, Sapphire
Antique 1890s Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Cufflinks
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow ...
Antique 1890s French Art Nouveau Wedding Rings
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Enamel, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Antique 1890s Art Nouveau Link Bracelets
Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Egyptian Revival Brooches
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Chain Necklaces
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold-filled, Silver, Sterling Silver, Bronze
2010s American Art Nouveau Chain Necklaces
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold-filled, Silver, Sterling Silver, Bronze
2010s American Art Nouveau Chain Necklaces
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold-filled, Silver, Sterling Silver, Gold Plate
Vintage 1960s Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, White Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow ...
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Band Rings
Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold
Antique 1890s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Opal, Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow ...
Vintage 1930s Italian Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Sapphire, Silver
Antique 1890s American Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Star Sapphire, Platinum
Vintage 1910s Italian Art Nouveau Fashion Rings
Sapphire, Gold
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Platinum
Early 20th Century Dutch Art Nouveau Fashion Rings
Sapphire, Gold
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Jade, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s European Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau Bangles
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Natural Pearl, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Pink Sapphire, Sapphire, Gold, Rose Gold, 18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Vanity Items
Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Gold
Antique 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Cufflinks
Sapphire, 18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Solitaire Rings
Star Sapphire, 18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Malachite, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Bangles
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Green Sapphire, Purple Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yell...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Lever-Back Earrings
Turquoise, Yellow Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Ster...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Lever-Back Earrings
Turquoise, Yellow Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Ster...
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Lever-Back Earrings
Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Platinum
Antique 1890s North American Art Nouveau Three-Stone Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Tennis Bracelets
Green Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire,...
Antique Early 1900s Swedish Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold
20th Century Art Nouveau Bangles
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Tennis Bracelets
Green Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire,...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Tennis Bracelets
Green Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire,...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Tennis Bracelets
Green Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire,...
Antique 1890s American Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Tourmaline, ...
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Bangles
Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Fashion Rings
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Agate, Amethyst, Carnelian, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Rock Crysta...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
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A Close Look at art-nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
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From vibrant to subtle, elegant to cheeky, enamel jewelry encompasses a wide range of colors and styles, and there are almost as many techniques for creating these distinctive pieces.
What Makes Art Nouveau Jewelry So Collectible?
The first art and design movement of the 20th century was all about celebrating beauty of women and nature.