Ysl Straw

French designer Yves Saint Laurent pioneered “cross-design” in fashion, taking inspiration from street trends to modernize haute couture.

Saint Laurent was the first to launch a ready-to-wear label, YSL Rive Gauche Prêt-à-Porter. He was the first couturier to open boutiques for both men and women. Using traditional menswear fabrics and designs for women, Saint Laurent also literally cross-dressed, giving men and women alike chic pant suits, elegant tuxedo jackets and urban safari gear.

By blurring gender-specific design, Saint Laurent empowered individual style while creating a scissor-sharp fashion aesthetic of sensual ease and beauty. Many of his designs are today considered timeless classics. Saint Laurent also consistently used Black models, like Mounia, Iman and Naomi Campbell, and he drew endless inspiration from different ethnicities and cultures, in no small part because of his Algerian roots.

Born to French parents in Oran, Algeria, in 1936, Saint Laurent went to Paris at age 17 to study fashion at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Just two years later, in 1955, his remarkable sketches were shown to Christian Dior, then the world’s reigning couturier, who hired him immediately.

Surprisingly soon thereafter, Dior publicly chose Saint Laurent as his successor, which sadly proved prescient when the fashion legend died unexpectedly, in 1957. A mere slip of a youth, the 21-year-old Saint Laurent was nevertheless up to the challenge. He shook the traditional couture clientele to its core with youthful silhouettes and styles like the A-line trapeze dress that hung with seeming effortlessness from the shoulders, the antithesis of the pinched waists and molded skirts that had been all the rage after the deprivations of World War II.

After a mandated spell in the torturous French military, Saint Laurent suffered a nervous breakdown and was dismissed by Dior in 1962. Out of the ashes rose the Age of Yves. With Pierre Bergé, his then-lover who became his lifelong business partner and friend, the designer founded Yves Saint Laurent YSL to encompass prêt-à-porter, or ready-to-wear. In 1966, they opened the first YSL Rive Gauche women’s boutique in Paris, followed soon thereafter by YSL Rive Gauche for men. Saint Laurent had given birth to a global brand.

His revolutionary Mondrian mini dress from 1965 is a core element of his fashion biography. It is a prime example of how Saint Laurent, an avid art lover and collector, looked to painters, from Goya to Picasso, Ingres to Matisse, for inspiration.

With its pure lines and hues, Mondrian’s ground-breaking 1935 color-block painting Composition C transmutes beautifully into a dress that is highly valued by collectors of contemporary fashion and widely copied commercially to this day. The design is the epitome of Saint Laurent’s aesthetic, requiring a meticulous hand-piecing of each color block so that, despite the body’s curves, the visual plane is as flat as a canvas when the garment is worn. Mondrian’s purity met its match in Saint Laurent.

“I am no longer concerned with sensation and innovation, but with the perfection of my style,” Saint Laurent said four years before retiring, in 2002. After a long period of ill health, he died at his home in Paris on June 1, 2008.

Browse an extraordinary collection of vintage Yves Saint Laurent evening dresses, shirts, handbags and other clothing and accessories today on 1stDibs.

Whether accompanying a simple black dress or a straightforward pantsuit, vintage and designer accessories add personality and can transform an outfit into a fashion statement. Accessorizing is a means of expressing oneself, from colorful hats to timeless handbags.

A finely made scarf can pack a punch on its own, but accompanying a variety of other clothing, it can fuse a look or offer a flash of color. The perfect shoes can enhance an outfit, and different types of shoes can even change how you feel. Heels can provide a feeling of empowerment and confidence, while loafers and flats can offer a comfortable vibe. Sandals can be casual or elegant, able to dress up or down a range of attire.

Purses and handbags have been around in various forms since the days of hunter-gatherers using pouches to carry food, tools and other items. Bag design evolved notably during the Middle Ages. The shoulder bags and other bags ferried on today’s shoulders continue to be utilitarian while serving as status symbols. Chic design and exceptional quality contribute to beautifully constructed statement purses.

Men and women have worn hats throughout history. While they started as simply protection from the sun, they evolved into stylish accessories. Vintage hats never go out of style and add an exciting detail to an ensemble. The first boutique established by legendary fashion designer Coco Chanel drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats.

Sunglasses were popularized in the 1920s by Hollywood stars attempting to remain incognito in public. They endure as a fashion-forward accessory — a pair of vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses, for example, can top off a look in any season and emanate an air of sophistication.

From belts and neckties to cloche hats and berets, browse an extensive selection of vintage and designer accessories on 1stDibs to complement any wardrobe.