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TomFord 2001 1stYearYSL PlungingV CutOut Draped Gown Sheer Silk Black Maxi Dress

About the Item

American Tom Ford, for his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Paris/Rive Gauche while also creative director at Gucci, designed this Spring/Summer 2001 black formal evening gown that features a plunging V-neck and ruched center-seams that support opaque cut-out side-draping panels, which overlay an attached black semi-transparent stretch-silk maxi dress. At this turning point, founder French Saint Laurent (1936-2008) was only designing couture while he planned to retire by early 2002 after selling his Parisian fashion-house to luxury conglomerates, which had named Ford its creative director. Crystalizing the iconic brand's sex appeal, Ford debuted in Paris tuxedo-inspired womenswear in mostly black or white, which included this dress. The collection enabled Ford to win the Council Of Fashion Designers of America Womenswear Award for 2001 Designer Of The Year, while he had also created collections for Gucci Group where he had gained fame over the decade. Of note, the departing French founder was not enthusiastic about the replacement designer's meteoric creative and financial impact, which Vogue reported turned "the near-bankrupt brand into a multibillion-dollar powerhouse." Made in France, this French-size-36 formal gown (which can stretch for a larger size) reinterpreted a few of the masculine elements of Saint Laurent, while maintaining the powerful "le Smoking" look that he introduced to womenswear in 1966. Around the plunging neckline revealing lots of skin, a ruched overlay of horizontally draped viscose panels are joined only at the center of the front and back for bold vertical lines rising from the floor like tuxedo trousers. With elongating draping on both sides of the entire dress, the curvaceous panels suggest a more voluptuous, yet svelte, figure. The upside-down Mandarin-collar shape at the bottom of the maxi dress is a nod to the 1977 Chinese-art-influenced haute-couture collection of Saint Laurent. Yet the black semi-sheer stretch-silk underlay, which fully lines the pull-over dress and comfortably hugs the body, is pure Tom Ford. In contrast to the rippled panels, a smooth silhouette can be glimpsed in the discreetly located gaps, which makes the gown even more provocative. Remarkably, this gown can be worn a second way to appear different with draping cap-sleeves and a less voluminous bust (see single photo with view of front). When slipping it on overhead from the bottom of the dress, the arms can penetrate the top gap of the draping panels on the openwork overlay to enable two of them to drape from the shoulders instead of underneath. Founder Yves Saint Laurent's final haute-couture collection was presented for Spring 2002. Since Tom Ford's last womenswear collection for YSL Paris/Rive Gauche in Fall/Winter 2004, he founded his eponymous luxury brand, while his multidisciplinary creative achievements continue to be recognized with major industry awards and honors. For a comparison of increasing value, a 1stDibs listing for a later-dated similar black stretch-silk long gown by Tom Ford for Gucci from Fall/Winter 2003 in excellent condition sold for $14,200, while another 1stDibs listing for a red maxi dress from his Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche collection from that same season sold for $12,000.
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: FR36 with stretch (EU)Shoulder to Hem: 57 in (144.78 cm)
  • Style:
    tuxedo 1966 Le Smoking (In the Style Of)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Material Notes:
    Given construction with little restriction, the stretch-silk dress will also fit a larger size.
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218135972

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