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TomFord 2001 1stYSLCollection TuxedoStyle SheerSeams LeatherTrim Black SkirtSuit

About the Item

For his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche for Spring/Summer 2001, American Tom Ford debuted on the Paris runway this tuxedo-style black virgin-wool evening skirt-suit that features unique L-shaped cut-outs on the midi skirt that separate most of the waistband and vertical panels with discreetly sexy transparent black quarter-inch-wide "seams". Playing with the linear imagery of darker seams on sheer stockings or the shiny reflection of tuxedo-trouser satin stripes, the side-zipped lined skirt can be worn with its peak-a-boo seams along the front or back of the legs--either with no undergarment to reveal skin, or for more obvious contrast with colorful tights such as white or red. Please note that our mannequin does not have full legs, so the sheer cut-outs mostly appear black in our photos. While maintaining the powerful feminine look that Saint Laurent introduced in his 1966 collection, Ford reinterpreted some of "Le Smoking" elements. For example, he refined the Frenchman's then-shocking transparent blouse down to the understated see-through skirt seams that reveal only a glimpse of the legs and hips. Other purely-Ford details are the substitution of tuxedo-style satin accents with repeated L-shaped trim in shiny Italian calfskin leather throughout the dinner jacket, such as on the split cuffs or on the luxurious interior vent and waistband with invisible single-button closure. The additional fine tailoring on the jacket includes notched lapels, angled breast pocket, piped front flap pockets (with uncut temporarily sewn seals), shoulder pads, and topstitching that narrowly defines the single-breasted waist between torso tucks. The ample French-size 36 could be worn by larger sizes, while we think it will best suit a U.S.-size 6. The Ford-designed ready-to-wear collection marked the turning-point for French founder Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), when he planned to retire with a final haute-couture collection in Spring 2002 after he sold his Parisian fashion-house to luxury conglomerates, which named Ford (b. 1961) its creative director by 1999. Crystalizing the iconic brand's sex appeal with his inaugural collection, Ford presented tuxedo-inspired womenswear in only black and white for the fashion show. Ensembles like this made-in-France skirt suit enabled Ford to win the Council Of Fashion Designers of America Womenswear Award for 2001 Designer of the Year, while he had also created Italian collections for Gucci where he had gained fame over the decade. Of note, the departing French founder was not enthusiastic about the replacement designer's meteoric creative impact, which Vogue reported turned "the near-bankrupt brand into a multibillion-dollar powerhouse." Since Tom Ford's last womenswear collection for YSL Rive Gauche in Fall/Winter 2004, he founded his eponymous luxury brand, while his multidisciplinary creative achievements continue to be recognized with major industry awards and honors.
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: FR36 (EU)Shoulder to Hem: 57 in (144.78 cm)
  • Style:
    1966 Le Smoking tuxedo (In the Style Of)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220641702

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