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Cartier Paris Art Deco Cuff Bracelet Removable Sapphire Diamond Clips

$395,000

About

A polished gray gold cuff set a the front with two detachable clips, each of floral design set with petals of oval and cushion-shaped sapphires, the centers set with round diamonds; mounted in 18-karat white gold and platinum; with maker’s and French assay marks • Signed Cartier, Paris, 06826 • Each clip: 1 5/8 x 1 5/8 inches; bangle: 2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 1 5/8 inches Significance In the late 1930s, the geometric abstraction of the Art Deco era evolved as recognizable natural motifs made their way back into jewelry design and the flat designs of earlier decades were replaced with bolder sculptural massing. Cartier championed the new modern aesthetic and produced some of the most compelling jewelry during this time, striking a balance between the naturalistic and the abstract. Bangles, necklaces, and dress clips were produced with vibrant sculptural forms using a restricted color palette, emphasizing the curves and planes of each design. Under the direction of Jeanne Toussaint, who took over the luxury jewelry department in 1933, Cartier modernized their approach to wearable jewelry, creating convertible pieces that fit the lifestyle of the modern woman and could be worn in a variety of ways, such as this bangle with detachable clips. Nature and modernity is beautifully balanced in this jewel. Each brooch clip is set with a variety of oval and cushion-shaped sapphires in shades of a light cornflower blue hue, each representing a petal of the flower, with color variations simulating those found in nature. The flower center is composed of round diamonds set at different heights and angles producing a unique texture and representing the pistils of a flower. There is a sense of femininity in the curved facets of the sapphires and diamonds, and in the naturalistic pale blue color of the sapphires. The brooches can then be worn clipped to a dress or jacket in a variety of positions, or they can be worn on the modern polished gray gold bracelet. The cuff is signed on the reverse or gris referring to gray gold which was used by many avant-garde jewelers of the time such as Suzanne Belperron, who preferred it for its visual appeal and cool tone. At the turn of the century, Cartier was one of the first jewelry houses to master the use of platinum. Their innovative designers used the remarkable metal’s qualities of hardness and suppleness to create delicate settings that nearly disappeared. For these clips, the platinum setting hides behind the stones, instead highlighting the subtleties of the color and shapes. Together with the original and cleverly designed fitted box with matching numbering, this combination jewel is extraordinary and versatile. Modern, yet feminine and naturalistic, this jewel is extremely rare and an excellent example of superior design by a world-renowned jewelry house.

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    Ships From: New York, NY
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About the Designer

Cartier

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts.While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces. It’s certainly one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.
About the Seller
5 / 5
Located in New York, NY

Siegelson is a world-renowned gallery offering rare collectible jewels. Third-generation gem and jewelry dealer Lee Siegelson has been credited with bridging the gap between art and jewelry design, in the process transforming estate jewelry into a vibrant part of the luxury goods and collectibles world. Focusing on a piece’s design rat...

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Established in 1920
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