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Cartier Paris Art Deco Diamond Clip Brooch circa 1930

$35,000

About

A clip brooch composed of a central line of graduated European-cut diamonds, sided by lines of European- and single-cut diamonds, edged with lines of angled baguette diamonds, the ends of the brooch curve upward and are set with diamonds, with a double prong pin back; mounted in platinum and white gold, with French assay marks • 79 European- and single-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 7.00 carats • 37 baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.50 carats • Signed Cartier, 5964 After World War I, social and technological changes influenced fashion and jewelry design. The elaborate dresses and restricted hourglass figure popular with women at the turn of the century was replaced with the flapper look—comfortable drop-waist daytime dresses with raised hemlines and long A-line sleeveless dresses with revealing necklines for the evening. The new fashions were simpler than previous eras allowing for ease of movement and focusing on sumptuous materials and interesting draping or monotone beadwork that created the perfect backdrop for the new jewels of the era. The dress clip became the essential jewel in the 1920s and 1930s. Women were drawn to the versatility of the jewel, clipping them to necklines, shoulders, lapels, handbags, the hair, or even the wrist opening of a coat. This diamond and platinum Cartier clip utilizes a variety of stone cuts to create visual interest within the all-white jewel. The central line of graduated round diamonds and the overall modified triangle shape create a strong directional jewel, drawing the eye of the viewer. In a subtle design move, the baguette diamonds, set with platinum triangles at the ends, are positioned perpendicular to the central spine of diamonds, balancing the directional pull of the piece. The ends of the jewel simulate being rolled over, softening the angular edges of this strongly geometric design. The pierced diamond shapes behind the central line of diamonds is another subtle design touch demonstrating the level of consideration that went into creating the intricate layered design of this diamond-set piece. Created around 1930, when the bold colors of the earlier Art Deco period were replaced by sophisticated jewels in all white, this Cartier dress clip would be beautiful clipped to any neckline and could be worn alone or layered with other diamond jewelry.

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    Ships From: New York, NY
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About the Designer

Cartier

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle reportedly inspired by medieval chastity belts.While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces. It’s certainly one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.
About the Seller
5 / 5
Located in New York, NY

Siegelson is a world-renowned gallery offering rare collectible jewels. Third-generation gem and jewelry dealer Lee Siegelson has been credited with bridging the gap between art and jewelry design, in the process transforming estate jewelry into a vibrant part of the luxury goods and collectibles world. Focusing on a piece’s design rat...

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Established in 1920
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