Art Nouveau Brooches
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Brooches
Coral, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Gr...
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Brooches
Opal, Sapphire, Pearl, Ruby, Silver, 18k Gold, Gold Plate
2010s Dutch Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s European Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Austrian Art Nouveau Brooches
Aquamarine, Diamond, Sapphire, Zircon, Silver, Sterling Silver
20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, Yellow Gold, 10k Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s Swiss Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Pink Sapphire, Tsavorite, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Malachite, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s German Art Nouveau Brooches
Garnet, Blue Sapphire, Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Brooches
Emerald, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Diamond, White Diamond, 9k Gold, Yello...
1980s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Garnet, Sapphire, Spinel, Opal, Gold
1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Sterling Silver, Mixed Metal
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Brooches
Green Sapphire, Blue Zircon, Purple Sapphire, Mandarin Garnet, Zircon, T...
1960s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, White Gold
1880s Russian Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Cultured Pearl, Diamond, Sterling Silver, Yellow Gold, White G...
19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
1880s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
2010s Italian Art Nouveau Brooches
Emerald, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
1920s French Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow ...
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Cultured Pearl, Pink Sapphire, Ruby, South Sea Pearl, Black Diamond, Dia...
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
White Diamond, Blue Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Green Sapphire, Gold, 14k ...
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Black Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold