Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Jewelry
1910s Russian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
1910s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 14k Go...
1920s Danish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Topaz, Sterling Silver, Gold Plate, Gold, Silver
1910s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver, Steel
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Yellow Sapphire, Green Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire,...
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver, 14k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pink Diamond, White Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold
2010s French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Jade, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Japanese Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Emerald, Onyx, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pear...
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Platinum, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Gold Pla...
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Natural Pearl, Pearl, White Gold, Platinum, Gold
Early 20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Onyx, Green Beryl, White Diamond, Diamond, Beryl, White Gold, 14k Gold, ...
1910s Dutch Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, Silver
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Emerald, Yellow Diamond, Morganite, White Diamond, White Gold, 1...
Early 20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver, Sterling Silver
Mid-20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold Plate, White Gold, Vermeil, Sterling Silver
2010s European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Cultured Pearl, Topaz, Pinchbeck, Sterling Silver, Vermeil
Early 1900s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Russian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, 10k Gold
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Green Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Jade, Silver
1950s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold
1890s German Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Silver
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Turquoise, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Portuguese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold
2010s Swedish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Norwegian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver, Gold, Enamel
Late 19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Citrine, Tourmaline, Gold, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Topaz, Blue Topaz, Silver, Sterling Silver
1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Zircon, White Gold, Rhodium, Sterling Silver
Late 19th Century Danish Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
1920s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold