Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Gold, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
1940s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Base Metal
1990s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Silver
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Austrian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Pearl, 14k Gold
2010s European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Natural Pearl, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
20th Century Austrian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Spinel, Multi-gemstone, Silver
Early 1900s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
10k Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
2010s French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Crystal, Tourmaline, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Platinum
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold Plate, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Jade, 18k Gold, Silver
1920s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Malachite, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Freshwater Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1950s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Citrine, Tsavorite, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, White Diamond, 18k Gold
1920s Australian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Pearl, Gold, 15k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver
1880s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
1880s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Turquoise, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold
1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Zircon, Ruby, Sterling Silver, Gold Plate, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Garnet, 14k Gold, Enamel
