Cartier Must De Vermeil Tank Watch, Burgundy/Brown Tank, 1970s, Made in France

Designed in 1916 by Louis Cartier (1875–1942) — the grandson of Cartier founder Louis-François Cartier — the Tank watch, like few other wristwatches, has seen consistent success since its inception. A variation of the original called the Tank Française watch debuted in 1996 — a modern interpretation of the design that launched the line. Today, the Française is the most popular watch in the series.

Named as a tribute to the formidable Renault tanks that Louis Cartier observed on the Western Front during the first World War — the case was in itself intended to evoke a tank’s cockpit, while the rectangular brancards visually resemble the armored vehicle’s treads — Cartier’s original Tank watch was conceived as a gift from Louis to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force that was stationed in Europe. In 1919, the design entered its first full year of production but was limited to just six watches, and for many years, Cartier manufactured less than 100 of the model annually. 

Wholly rare and wonderfully unadorned, the Tank was an instant hit upon its debut (even as Cartier worried about marketing the piece to men and convincing them to ditch their beloved pocket watches). Subsequent variations, which include the admired Tank Chinoise, Tank Louis Cartier, Tank à Guichets and Tank Obus, are revered by watch lovers the world over, but the Tank Française is widely considered to be the pinnacle of contemporary Tank design. Princess Diana owned an all-gold Française, while former First Lady Michelle Obama was photographed for her official White House portrait with the stainless-steel version on her wrist.

Similar to the Panthère de Cartier watch, the Française was the first of the Cartier Tank series to have a chain-link bracelet — a prominent modification in lieu of the rest of the series’ leather straps. The collection’s characteristic black Roman numerals and sword-shaped hands remained intact for the Française, but the case is more square-shaped than the overtly rectangular original.

While it’s true that the Tank Française introduced a casual and more modern aesthetic to the French classic — and you might instead reach for your Panthère rather than your Tank Française to complement formal wear for a fancy cocktail party — this addition to the Tank series retains all of the elegance and sophistication of the original, sporty or not. It’s available with or without diamonds in stainless steel, yellow or pink gold and in a two-toned edition that features accents of both.

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.